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GIK Acoustics D1 Diffuser

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bpape:
GIK Acoustics is proud to introduce our newest product the D1 diffuser. The D1 is a new design which combines the best of a standard QRD along with a unique curved profile to extend the useful frequency range far beyond a standard diffuser of this type and size.




The D1 is made from strong, lightweight ABS and is paintable to match your
rooms color scheme.

*Fully tested
*Out performing diffusion costing 4 times as much
*Paintable
*Super cool looking
*Easy to mount
*Available in White or Black

D1 product info

Learn more about how diffusion works


For more information or to discuss how diffusion may fit into your room
design, contact us at: glenn.k@gikacoustics.com


Bryan

miklorsmith:
Cool!  In what situations would you recommend diffusion versus absorbtion?

richidoo:
Congrats on the new product Bryan!! It looks awesome!

Mike, I am not an expert, but I did read Peter D'Amato's new book. OUCH! That hurt (pocketbook and brain cells.) but it is very interesting, (if you find acoustic theory interesting) :D

Diffusion would be the best choice to stop reflections in a small room used for critical listening because it reduces distortion without removing any energy from the room as do absorbers. Removing energy makes the room sound dead if overdone, which his often necessary to control reflections solely with absorbtion. But diffusion has limitations in application and cost. A diffusor that works as well as a 4" thick FG absorber at 100Hz would be huge and very expensive. So absorbtion is more efficient in size and cost than diffusion at stopping reflections at frequencies below 800-1000Hz. Cheaper diffusion products won't do a good job below 1Khz, but a homemade quadratic residue diffusor made of wood in a manageable size can work well down to 800Hz or a little lower. Below that, absorbers are the best choice for stopping reflections. That's why the real experts say you need some of both when you want to really fine tune the room and are working with space and budget considerations. Without either, you could do a lot more diffusion at lower frequencies and maybe gain a little bit nicer sound. Some recording and mastering studios do this.

IMO, adding as much diffusion as possible is the best course, AFTER you already have enough absorbtion to handle reflections in the sub 1kHz freqs, and most of that absorbtion would go in the corners. The diffusion will break up the reflections on the remaining flat wall surfaces and restore the liveliness, but better than normal refelctions, it is diffuse reflections! Lively with no interference with your direct sound from the speakers - at least none that the brain would notice.

The rear wall, then front wall, then ceiling, then side walls are probably the best order of effectiveness for adding diffusion. Notice that these surfaces have gradually increasing angle of incidence from the source. If the side walls have a more normal incidence than the ceiling (farther away) they could come before wall, but their distance would reduce the value of diffusion also. The more normal the incidence (sound hits straight on, 90 degrees) the better for typical diffusion products. Absorbtion efficiency is less sensitive to angle of incidence than typical diffusion products.

Please correct me if any of this is not quite right, Bryan! Thanks
Rich

miklorsmith:
WOW, thanks Rich!

Woodsyi:
Very nice Rich.  I am still using absorption behind the speakers on front wall on account of believing in the merits of LEDE concept but I agree with using both. 

Questions Bryan.  Which is better -- using a bunch of them together on a wall to form a big panel or spacing them apart for broader coverage?  Can diffraction orientation be rotated or should it be maintained throughout if multiple units are used?  What prime number QRD is it?

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