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Tweeter Type For Rear Facing ‘Super Tweeter’ Duty

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James Edward:
I’m going to add a rear firing tweeter to try and add some ‘air’ to my system. I’m already quite happy with the way things are, but the adage ‘if it ain’t broke, fix it until it is’, is at play. I’m going to do whatever is necessary myself; add a capacitor as crossover and possibly an L-pad if necessary. I have a consultant for crossover caps and values, (jimbones), so what I’d like to discuss is tweeter type.
Since it will be rear firing, and crossed over somewhere above 6k, I think my options are many- power handling won’t be much of an issue above 6k, but maybe dispersion is key in a rear firing situation?
So... dome, ribbon, horn, AMT(which I think is a kind of ribbon)...
Any thoughts are appreciated.
Jim

jimbones:
Jim, Just go with an inexpensive dome. No ribbons or AMTs. Peerless DX25 or XT25 silk series are fine. Parts express has them.

tmazz:
I would start with something that is a similar take to what you have as your forward firing tweeter.

I would think that if you use a rear firing tweeter that is a different technology with different sonic characteristics you may that trouble getting them to bled tighter cohesively.

Others with more speaker design experience might have different experience and/or opinions, but that is just what jumped into my head when I read your question.

James Edward:
I’m having my kitchen cabinets refinished, and today was install day. Since I couldn’t go far, I crimped and soldered my way into a rear tweeter. I learned several things- I can’t solder for shit, and don’t try and evaluate anything during the mayhem of housing upgrades.
First- I decided to solder the lead from the tweeter to cap; not a good idea... The solder joint from the voice coil was too close and melted- I saw what was happening and stopped in time. I learned to just use a slide on connector at this juncture... I thought I had ruined the tweeter for sure, but upon hookup it was just fine. I am surprised at how much output there was at the 10k crossover point. I know it’s therefore only down 6 db at 5k, but still... At least my ears are still hearing high frequencies.
The cabinet guys thought it sounded great, but I believe a potentiometer/ L-Pad is in my future.
I posted this verbose response because BobM said in another thread he visits here for the human interest stories... Well, the cabinets look better than my soldering.

Nick B:

--- Quote from: James Edward on April 22, 2021, 03:34:21 PM ---I’m having my kitchen cabinets refinished, and today was install day. Since I couldn’t go far, I crimped and soldered my way into a rear tweeter. I learned several things- I can’t solder for shit, and don’t try and evaluate anything during the mayhem of housing upgrades.
First- I decided to solder the lead from the tweeter to cap; not a good idea... The solder joint from the voice coil was too close and melted- I saw what was happening and stopped in time. I learned to just use a slide on connector at this juncture... I thought I had ruined the tweeter for sure, but upon hookup it was just fine. I am surprised at how much output there was at the 10k crossover point. I know it’s therefore only down 6 db at 5k, but still... At least my ears are still hearing high frequencies.
The cabinet guys thought it sounded great, but I believe a potentiometer/ L-Pad is in my future.
I posted this verbose response because BobM said in another thread he visits here for the human interest stories... Well, the cabinets look better than my soldering.

--- End quote ---

Was it you who just got the new soldering iron? If you were having trouble, heck,  I haven’t soldered in 20+ years  :roll:

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