AudioNervosa
Electro Stimulation Ward => Signals and Noise => Topic started by: Bob in St. Louis on July 05, 2009, 09:55:14 AM
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I'm starting to accumulate components to build my own ICs (to make the system quad amped and full active) and am looking for some advise and/or recommendations on terminations. I'll be using the Musilux mic cable and have purchased 30' of it already.
The components involved will require XLR and RCA jacks. I've linked the types and quantities of my first choices from PE, below.
- Female XLR 092-306 $3.88 x (6)
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=092-306
- Male XLR 092-309 $3.66 x (2)
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=092-309
- Male RCA 092-111 $1.89 x (5)
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=092-111
The prices should indicate where I'm at financially speaking (but that's a story for another day :roll:)
Mainly, I'm curious if anybody has used these items, and your thoughts on them. Or.....If you have any better recommendations in that price range.
It seems anytime I've finished a project somebody always says, "Gee, I wish I knew you where doing that, I could have given a recommendation for a better component." :duh
Thanks guys!
Bob
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For the money, I don't think you can improve on your plan Bob. Buy from PE to avoid Neutrik counterfits. I would suggest ProCo or Blue JeansCables if you didn't want to DIY, but buying finished goods of similar quality would increase the cost substantially. I have never heard Musilux wire, but I have heard Beldin and ProCo (which probably uses Beldin.) They are both very good, even for high end audio use. You might lose a little air and sparkle compared to premium audiophile wires. But for the extra money you can buy a lot more valuable sparkle in other areas of your life.
Have fun!
Rich
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Thanks for replying Rich.....Yea, it's all about the point of diminishing returns for me. Especially now in these times. So if these are "good enough to pass", then they sound like a worthwhile expenditure. For the price they can't be beat.
I've always been a DIY guy, the thought of paying somebody else to make something so easy to assemble (like wires) just sends a chill up my spine. So 'prebuilt' like BlueJeans or Belden are out the equation for now. I've made a few wires along the way, it's not that hard. Not only is it fun to build wires, I find it relaxing.
My main goal here was to make sure I'm getting the best bang for the buck in the price range I'm in.
Sounds like I've done 'ok' on my choice.
I'm also wondering about the "solder-ability" of these components from somebody that's used them before. I've had some cheap stuff in the past that would accept solder about as well as a piece of glass. Talk about frustration. :roll:
The MusuLUX cable is described > HERE < (http://wirelux.com/category.aspx?categoryid=1&startpage=0), with more information > HERE < (http://wirelux.com/ProductInfo.aspx?productid=LX11100-500).
It's only sold in 500' rolls, but there's a fella on the forums that bought a roll and has some left, so I bought 30' for less than $20 with shipping. It's a 2 conductor with shield.
Mainly, I'm building a bunch of wires and would hate to find out there's a better way for the same amount of money out there.
Again, thanks Rich!!!
Anybody else?
Bob
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I think you'll be fine Bob. Mic cable is kind of a different animal since it's primary goals are different than a standard audio cable (doesn't need to be 20-20k, needs to be very quiet, needs to handle very long runs well, etc)
It should solder just fine. If you run into an issue with the wire (if it's enameled - shouldn't be), you can just dip the ends in a solder pot and that will take care of it.
The Neutrik connectors are very well made. I have them on all of my balanced interconnects in the HT. They're rock solid. Don't know about the RCA's but they should be fine and a good bang for the buck.
Bryan
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WBT nextgens are the ticket. Not cheap but IMO one of the best out there. Much easier to work with then the Eichmans as well as better contact.
charles
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Good deal. Thanks for the replies guys. Sounds like I'm on the right track.
Thank you!
Bob
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The WBT clones from Parts Connexion are very good for them money and my first choice based on $$$ cost. But the WBT 0144's and the Dayton Silvers are really nice RCA's, if much more expensive. I tried Eichmanns and they tend to sound soft and non-dynamic to me. The Cardas are also good sounding, but their strain relief sucks and I avoid them for that reason. I hate having to go back and resolder their connections if I happen to move or twist the cable the wrong way.
Obviously I don't buy into the lower mass Eichmann story, through personal experience and direct comparison with the others.
Good luck Bob
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Hey Bob, good to see you here buddy. ;)
Thanks for the recommendations. I pulled the trigger on the PE components yesterday afternoon. I received the 30' of Musilux mic cable that Henry has been pimpin'. I'm impressed by the look and feel of the cable. It almost has a Laytex tubing feel to it. Very flexible, very soft. Dare I say it's supple without sounding too feminine. :rofl:
Again, thanks for the words fellas.
Welcome to the forum Bob.
Bob
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Just in case ya'all are curious, I thought I'd show off what I've done:
(http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k60/BobinStLouis/Wires.jpg)
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They look truly beautiful. I love the royal blue color.
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They look truly beautiful. I love the royal blue color.
They could pass for Siltechs
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They could pass for Siltechs
Is that a good thing? :oops:
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Uh-oh... Bob I think they're onto you.
http://www.siltechcables.com/wawcs0115618/fake.html
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They look great, but how do you know which is L and R?
Lin
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Rich, No problem there man. Mine are a manly shade of blue. Those are a feminine pastel shade.
No worries about imitation here. :lol:
Preistube, Well.....I can tell because the right one is plugged into the red female RCA.
Ok, seriously...Most of these are coming out of a Behringer DCX2496. There is no color coding for right and left. Only a simple alpha/numeric designation. The inputs are "A" through "C", the outputs are "1" through "6".
For instance, I've written down that:
-- #1 from the DCX is the main channel coax left side that runs from 20kHz down to about 80(ish)Hz.
-- #4 will feed the bass augmenting driver for the right side that goes from 80Hz down to ??Hz.
-- #5 will run the mono Infinite Baffle that takes care of the lowest octaves.
I had thought about color coding the RCA ends, but ultimately, in my situation it doesn't matter much.
Overall, I figure it's not too bad for about $7 a cable.
Bob
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Not too bad at all!
Is the DCX ready to go? Any mods on that puppy?
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The DCX is "ready to go" as far as being operational. I just got everything wired up and the settings (remotely controlled through my computer) figured out a few minutes ago.
As far as it being modded, no....I need to recover financially from "life" and the unpleasant things it has to offer before I can mod it.
Since the DCX is (now) a very integral part of music, movies, and gaming, I'd hate to remove it from the system long enough to take it apart and mod it. When the time comes, my wet dream would be to purchase another DCX and mod it. Then when it's done, I can slip it into the system and be able to perform a direct A/B comparison. But the biggest factor would be not having the system "down" for as long as it will take to mod it.
Besides, when the time comes to mod it, I'll be having a lot of questions for somebody. :roll:
So far today, I've got rough settings for two channel music, so I'm pretty happy right now.
Ideally, I'd have to have dozens of settings for different "moods".
For instance;
- Two channel -- Coax full range (however much of the spectrum they can handle)
- Two Channel -- Coax full range down to 80(ish), then the 15" Augies take over to their natural roll off.
- Two Channel -- Coax to 80(ish), Augies to 30(ish), the Infinite Baffle down to natural roll off.
Of course I'll need different settings for movies on the two DVD sources I have, multichannel music from those same sources, all of which will be with and without the Infinite Baffle, and Augies, etc.....
I can foresee myself having LOTS of settings to play with. :drool:
My son has commandeered the PS3 and is playing a shooter game. So of course, I've got to optimize the settings for that, and save them as "PS3-Gaming".
Ohh.....life is good...... Life is fun..... :D
Bob
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Sounds cool. I have a DCX with Didden mod installed, but no PS or clock upgrades. It still needs final finishing up, but then you can try it if you want to hear what it sounds like. I probably won't mod it any further.
I like the idea of Endler's cap coupled direct outputs for the DCX. But I also like the idea of PC based digital crossover too, so I will probably pursue that at some point.
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As far as the PC part of it is concerned, all you need is a RS-232 cable. If our PC doesn't have that available as an input, I can link you to a nice (cheap) RS-232 to USB dongle. If memory serves, I spent $25 for the cable which was almost 30' long.
Regarding the upgrades, I've got so many questions....and even more questions I don't even know to ask. Basically, "I have a soldering pencil and I'm not afraid to use it" type attitude. I'm more than willing, I just don't know where to start.
The PC part of it doesn't require any modding, or at least I don't think modding will effect sounds quality when it comes to the PC part of it. I think the PC is just "the slave" not part of the circuit.
Bob
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Bob,
A new item appeared in the Yahoo DCX2496 list today. You would have to source the parts but this is a killer price for the board. :)
mike
Hello
I do have PCB for this digital input/clock unit
http://freerider.dyndns.org/anlage/Behringer-Input-Stage-E.htm
I do sell them for 5 (five)US dollars + shipping. This price is what I paid. I do not have any profit selling them, so I hope it is ok to advertise here on this forum.
Eivind Stillingen, Norway
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Ohhh! That looks very nice. I'll check the discussion board. I signed up a long time ago, but became frustrated with the layout and organization of the site. I had a heckuva time navigating.
Mike, just off the top of your head, what's the rough cost of the mod?
Thanks!!
Bob
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Bob,
A similar setup from Pilgham Audio in The Netherlands is 80 Euros for the kit. This is similar but larger and likely easier to build. I'd guess perhaps $50 in parts. Last time I checked the AD and CS chips were fairly expensive.
The stock digital input of the DCX is not particularly good, they route the digital signal through a relay and some ribbon cable. Even without replacing the clock/SRC just bypassing all the gunk with some nice coax and reterminating with a 75R resistor is worth the effort.
The one thing you have to know about the DCX's... The traces on the board are fragile, as in they will lift with the slightest provocation. A product called ChipQuik is your friend, trust me on this, it's worth the $12 and then some.
And yeah, the yahoo site sucks. I subscribe via email and never visit the site unless I want something from the files section.
mike
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Well that's not too expensive. I had it in my mind the DCX mod was like $800 or so.
Maybe that was a much more extensive mod than just the input board??
I've hear the PC boards were delicate. I didn't know the traces came off, I thought it was the actual board was fragile due to being very thin. I've not seen the inside of one yet, but I'm dying to peel the cover off.
Good to know about the ribbon cable.
I'll look at the Yahoo site and see if I can find a parts list.
Mike. Great information. Thank you very much.
I've not done too much critical listening yet, but from the PC chair (you could call it "2nd row, center stage") it sounds pretty darn good so far. Still tweaking XO points, and channel gains for the various input sources, plus getting a feel for the software.
Bob
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Mike, that PCB is on it's way. Thank you for the heads-up on that. And also on the ChipQuik. That's one I wouldn't have figured out on my own.
Thanks!!!
Bob