The receptacle swap is easy.
BUT!!! You have to unplug the Uber and let it sit unenergized for 10 minutes before opening it up. If you don't, you could get a surprise of a lifetime from the Power Factor Correction network. It can dump in excess of 100A when shorted until it is fully drained by the safety resistors. That is enough to kill a person and is highly discouraged by my insurance company.
![Shocked :shock:](https://www.audionervosa.com/Smileys/default/icon_eek.gif)
The actual bleed down occurs in about 2 minutes, but better safe than sorry, eh?
All you have to do is remove the coverplate and the receptacle that you want to replace. Remove the black and white AC and ground wires. Remove the FinalFilter from the old receptacle. Install the FinalFilter on the new receptacle and then wire it up. Polarity is not an issue, but I recommend that the FinalFilter is reinstalled on the same polarity side it was removed from for best results. White (or red on some older Busses) wire to the Neutral side with nickel plated screws and the black wire (aka: the killer) to the brass or copper colored Hot screws. Ground goes to the green screw (black on Furutech), reinstall it and you are done.
Make sure that the screws are tight. I use Jena Labs contact Enhancer when I install the wire into the receptacles. There "should be" enough left to survive one swap. If it is necessary, any contact enhancer is OK. Anything from DeOxit to model railroading Rail Zip will work. Just remember: the tiniest amount possible is more than enough to treat the contacts.