Author Topic: Speaker cabinets  (Read 10676 times)

Offline mca

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Speaker cabinets
« on: March 06, 2007, 10:24:24 AM »
Anyone know where I can find some nice pre-built speaker cabinets in the 1cf or so size? I bought a pair of Audio Nirvana 8" full range drivers about a year ago with the thought of building a couple of cheap cabinets to throw them in. Reality is I have no woodworking tools and no garage to do the work in.

I know about the Parts Express cabinets, but wondered if there were any other options.
Modwright Transporter, Ayon Spirit II Integrated, Daedalus Ulysses speakers, Running Springs Haley conditioner, Reality cables, Black Sand Violet PC's.

WEEZ

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Speaker cabinets
« Reply #1 on: March 06, 2007, 11:32:21 AM »
Madisound has a cabinet with adjustable internal volume. Otherwise, with either larger or smaller than your 1 cu. ft. requirement  :?

WEEZ

Black Sand Cable

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Cabinets
« Reply #2 on: March 06, 2007, 02:11:05 PM »
Contact Al from RAW Acoustics (tell him I sent you) as he may be able to help you out.

www.rawacoustics.com

Offline Mike B.

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Speaker cabinets
« Reply #3 on: March 29, 2007, 08:46:43 AM »
add Parts Express to your check list. :wink:
Acme Audio Labs

Offline mca

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Re: Speaker cabinets
« Reply #4 on: January 24, 2008, 06:41:19 PM »
I ended up getting some nice MDF boxes on the cheap from Al at RAW acoustics. I plan to try these with a pair of Audio Nirvana 8" full range drivers. I am a total newbie at this and have a few questions:

What do I use to stuff the box with and how much should I be putting in?

I have heard of people damping the stamped baskets, what should I use?

I need a couple sets of 48" long or so wires that are on the warmer side to wire these up with, anyone have any suggestions? (If anyone has some spare wire around on the cheap, let me know!

Any other tweaks I can try with these?
Modwright Transporter, Ayon Spirit II Integrated, Daedalus Ulysses speakers, Running Springs Haley conditioner, Reality cables, Black Sand Violet PC's.

Offline bpape

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Re: Speaker cabinets
« Reply #5 on: January 24, 2008, 07:18:54 PM »
A cheap way to damp the cabinets:

Go to Home Depot or Lowes and buy some Mortite (rope caulk).  Take an old pot that you don't mid trashing.  Melt the Mortite in the pot.  Pour in the cabinets and slosh it around  or paint it on. 

Bryan
I am serious... and don't call me Shirley

Offline richidoo

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Re: Speaker cabinets
« Reply #6 on: January 25, 2008, 04:48:20 AM »
Do you have the steel basket standard version? You may wanna damp those basket legs too. Rope caulk will stick to them fine without melting, and it should peel off OK later. Electrical tape seesm to work OK too, in a couple layers. Can you measure the interior dimensions of the box for me, LxWxH? Your RAW boxes are sealed, right? If it has a port tell me the inside diameter and length of the port, and the distance of the port center below the top interior surface. I will simulate the stuffing for you. Acoustistuff from madison is good, as is raw wool if you can find it. Pink insulation will work too, use what you got first. Looks like some very cool drivers Mike!
Rich

Offline mca

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Re: Speaker cabinets
« Reply #7 on: January 25, 2008, 04:43:22 PM »
Yes, they are the standard version. I will get the measurements for you this weekend. The boxes are not ported now, but I was planning to do so.
Modwright Transporter, Ayon Spirit II Integrated, Daedalus Ulysses speakers, Running Springs Haley conditioner, Reality cables, Black Sand Violet PC's.

miklorsmith

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Re: Speaker cabinets
« Reply #8 on: January 25, 2008, 11:17:30 PM »
I have the full meal deal done to my Fostex 206Es.  They were quite the rage at AA a while back and I researched them with full Nervosa in effect.  I would use the heavy grade Dynamat inside and out, then industrial adhesive felt on top of that.  Then, you soften direct reflections from the driver as well as indirect from box walls.  I have some really dense, thin carpeting that I used to line the upper half of my BR boxes to deaden box reflections though I'm sure it won't deaden box talk.  You could glue dowels to parallel surfaces to create a superstructure, which Zu implemented in non-ghetto style with the Def. 2s.

Single drivers are cool, you can run speaker wires straight to the driver.  Amp > driver, it's more than theory, it makes music directly.  Let's chat.   :D

The Sigs love single drivers.

Offline richidoo

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Re: Speaker cabinets
« Reply #9 on: January 26, 2008, 07:19:29 AM »
My last single driver cabinets were too talky, made of thin pine, so I gave them away. I am rebuilding them now in the Magico style, ply strips turned sideways for monster stiffness. There are many schools of thought on how to make a cabinet quiet, however you get there, it is important. You don't want to water down the good stuff with box talk. Mike's approach sounds good to, the dynamat will damp the box resonance. I remember Carlman talking about it on a few occasions too in other contexts. I like the idea of the sound only touching wood or wool before it emerges. I only eat carrots and walnuts too. haha

ik632

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Re: Speaker cabinets
« Reply #10 on: January 26, 2008, 12:09:19 PM »
I once heard of someone building cabinets out of molded concrete. Could be interesting, but a whole lot of work. :duh

Offline richidoo

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Re: Speaker cabinets
« Reply #11 on: January 26, 2008, 05:11:48 PM »
Yeah, I have been thinking about that too. You definitely need to think through a project like that. But it is stiff and massive, perfect for speaker cabinet. Re-Bar anyone?  :D

Offline mca

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Re: Speaker cabinets
« Reply #12 on: January 30, 2008, 12:15:24 PM »
Rich, the box dimensions are 7.5"D X 11" W X 37.5" H. Those are ID.
Modwright Transporter, Ayon Spirit II Integrated, Daedalus Ulysses speakers, Running Springs Haley conditioner, Reality cables, Black Sand Violet PC's.

Offline richidoo

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Re: Speaker cabinets
« Reply #13 on: January 30, 2008, 12:25:07 PM »
OK Mike, gimme a day or so... :)

Actually... I need L(vc) = voice coil inductance. It is not on the spec sheet

I also estimated Sd (swept area of the driver cone) at 227cm^2, based on 170mm dia, guessed from the drawing. Can you find the exact area?

I also need the location of the center of the driver hole on the baffle, related to interior dimensions.

I would email commonsense audio but they are on vacation.
Rich

« Last Edit: January 30, 2008, 12:53:40 PM by richidoo »

Offline richidoo

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Re: Speaker cabinets
« Reply #14 on: February 01, 2008, 12:27:48 PM »
Hi Mike,
I played with your sealed box simulation some yesterday, using Quarter-wave mathCAD sheets from Martin King @ quarter-wave.com. Check it out, he has a lot of great articles there about single driver, open baffle and other speaker related physics. The software is very helpful in exploring how a speaker design will behave with various changes. I found that moving the driver to the center of the box makes a slight improvement in FR flatness at 400+Hz, probably nothing you would notice. But filling with stuffing at least half the volume makes a huge improvement over no stuffing. 100% stuff is even better.

The sheets have a different driver simulated as default, whose specs were similar to yours. So I left the Lvc at .9mH (I think, check your pDF) and I estimated the Sd from the drawing. But you could measure that from the peak of the surround, across the diameter to the other surround peak - the center of the moving surround. Sd is the swept area. It is close enough for this, since no ports or tuning is being done.

I also tried deccreasing the volume of the box (by stacking wood in the bottom. But since the Vas of the driver is larger than the box volume, reducing it further is counter productive. Increasing it would be the way to go, but you already have a fine box.  So for sealed speaker there isn't much you can do except stuff it full with stuffing, maybe Acoustuff, from madisound. I have not used it but read people's opinions who prefer it over polyester from walmart, which is also OK and a lot cheaper. Or cut open an old pillow that says all polyester and use the wool from that.

The box  frequency response of sealed cabinet is very shallow smooth slope, and remains rising up to 1kHz. To flatten out the FR between 1kHz and below, you can make a baffle step correction filter, which will lower the volume of tones above a certain frequency you choose, giving a flatter response but giving away the high efficiency at the higher freqs also. The filter would affect the sound quality to the degree you pay for nice parts and and time you put into designing it. If you use Squeezebox, Inguz room correction would be perfect for this, not affecting sound quality, while giving you the flatter FR of a hifi speaker.  Quarterwave sofware has the ability to simulate a passive step filter to go between amp and driver. I can try to find a filter for you if you want, but I don't know enough to do it justice. Picking parts is the art. Since our very own miklor is Inguz expert, I would try that first, it's free.



The picture is 3 frequency curves. Top with full stuffing and driver at the top end (32") so no stand is needed. Middle is same as above with only half stuffing, and bottom is full stuffing with driver centered, and speaker would have to be on a stand.

These simulations do not include reflection cancellations from rear wall or floor. Much of the crap you saw on the first pdf I sent you was floor reflections making the FR bumpy. When you put the speaker on the floor those will exist in reality, but designing compensation for the reflections into the speaker is way beyond my ability! Your ear is already adjusted for them, but room treatment frees that brtain power up for music enjoyment... haha

I will work on the ported box next if you're interested. But if you use it you should pay Martin license fee $25 for using his software. Adjusting stuffing is also design work, but the first hit is free. haha Once you got it, you might enjoy playing with it yourself!  He has some upgrades coming in Feb. to extend the frequency response prediction up to 10kHz, and speeding up the calculation by 10x. Bargain for $25.
Rich