I have 2 dedicated lines, one for high power (amps) and the other for low level stuff (pre, cd, TT etc). I am NOT putting in a 3rd
I'm looking to have installed {4} lines off a sub panel. One 30A for amps, 0ne 20A for preamp, TT and BSG QOL. One for 15A for digital and one extra. Now using one 15A dedicated line foe all.
Dave is this overkill ? I am using Two Ubers, one for analog one for digital with a Digibuss plugged into one dedicated 15A line. Using two Ubers made a difference over one for me.
What size breakers and for what do you recco Dave ?
charles
charles
Dave ?
charles
Sorry, Bud. Had my head up some docs butt for a while.
I generally recommend 2 home runs to the power entry. One for analog and the other for digital. The exception to the that is when there are 2 humongous monoblocs for amplification. Then it is 4. Get huge amps on their own circuit. That 30A will certainly do the trick!
Problems arise when using sub-panels and the grounding and branch circuit interactions. That is pretty much why I went to flea power and high sensitivity.
You are asking me if this is overkill. Nope. Git 'er dun...
First, read this:
https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=Choosing+Household+Wiring+for+Low+EMF&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8Great info for audio boneheads like us. Make sure that the wire is twisted. Some manufacturers only twist stranded. In this case, stranded wire is OK. The lists make all of this work.
I've always been a Square D or Siemens fan, but it seems like there are a lot of cheapie even in those lines. Consult your electrician and tell him what you are looking for.
Some other suggestions:
Use silver bearing paste on the connections. I use this:
https://www.americanelements.com/silver-paste-7440-22-4I have no idea what the cost is... it was given to me by a customer.
Another thing is to use a good contact enhancer. I use Jena Labs. One bottle is a lifetime supply.
MAKE SURE the copper is clean and oxide free before you begin.
Use the biggest Cu you can afford.
The wall receptacles will certainly establish the sonic baseline for the system. Anything that comes after that is shaping "that" sound. I have Furutech GTX NCF in the wall. after 2-3 weeks of love/hate they finally settled down and are AMAZING!
A couple of personal weirdnesses:
I do not believe everything that is touted to be the latest and greatest in tweaks until I try them for myself: Show me. I "believe" these things to be true because I could hear the improvements and simply find it a waste of precious time to statistically document the examples. Life is getting shorter all of the time-
Plastic boxes at the room entry points. No eddy currents or static if the ground wires are bonded to the box.
Disclaimer: Do
NOT Do This!!! I am relating what I do and all legalities that apply are my responsibility only for what I do. Beware!
I hope that is enough. I don't want to be responsible for some weekend warrior that 'thinks' he knows what he is doing with AC. They should leave that to a professional. One such weekend warrior almost killed me back in the early 80's. OK
I use the 10ga version of this cable and I connect the red and green ground wires together at both ends. I then cover both wires with green heat shrink at both ends and have a notice posted in the service entry with a big red arrow for whomever comes later... only smart, I think.
This gives a 7 ga ground wire of lower impedance than the conductors. This is a very good thing. Make sure that the grounding in the panel is good and well bonded to earth and water supply.
Steel cover plates are OK. I have not been able to convince myself that the CF covers are worth it. Still working on this one. I have a plate I'm playing with that has a VG RFI absorber inside. Jury is out, but I think this will be a product. I just need access to a tool to cut the outlet holes. The plate is wood, so maybe a laser...
Email me with specifics if you wish.
There is the current (!!!??
??!!!) stream of consciousness from Dave