No need to "reset the ground rod," which is a good thing because it's impossible to move it. It is solid copper driver 10 feet into the ground. There's nothing there to fix or improve. This is something the inspector checks very carefully. Usually the ground strap cable is connected to the rod underground. But it should last forever. Ham radio guys sometimes pour salt on their antenna grounds to lower the ground impedance which increases their S/N slightly. But they keep the cable connection above the salt. Only one ground is allowed to be connected to your electrical service so don't get any wild ideas.
Old breakers are fine. They don't often fail.
Most modern outlets used in new homes are total junk, cost <$0.50 in quantity. Wiggle the plug, if it moves easily or makes squeaky noises, consider replacing it with a quality duplex. The copper alloy and the grip will be better.
Among cheap stuff, the Pass & Seymour retail outlets are better than the retail Levitons.
Hubbell hospital grade outlets are very good, very tight with 20A rating. Carlman gave me one years ago, still using it. It takes a good 10 pounds of pressure to insert a plug, then it snaps in.
http://www.amazon.com/Hubbell-Wiring-HBL8300HI-Receptacle-Commercial/dp/B007NMCEPCThe PSAudio outlets are rebranded Hubbell hospital grade.
Jena Labs also uses the Hubbell, cryoed for audio, with special contact copper alloy, so they say.
http://www.jenalabs.com/ac-products/ac-parts09.htmlTalk to Triode Pete about the fancy Jap exotic outlets like Oyaide and Furutech.
Other than outlets, some other worthwhile power upgrades are:
Putting all audio-system breakers on the same leg (phase) of the 2 phase utility.
Install 20A breakers, 20A outlets and 12ga wire even if you will never use that much power. Some electricians won't dare "think beyond the code" and are afraid to install too thick wire for fear that the inspector is also stupid and will fail the job for being too good. So it is usually easier to just order a dedicated 20A line than to request a 15 amp breaker with 20A wire and a 15A exotic outlet. You can always replace the breaker or the outlet but you can't easily replace the wire. With 20A line you will have lower source impedance to your components.
Use dedicated outlets for the audio system when possible to eliminate any wire breaks between breaker and outlet which would increase source impedance.
If you must use a shared circuit, open up every outlet and junction and switch box in the circuit and tighten every screw like Godzilla. They can take it. If not, the outlet is junk. It is common for outlets to not be tightened down adequately during construction. The screws are steel, not copper, for the specific purpose of being able to take the elongation tension which serves to hold the contact pressure forever and resist loosening with temperature changes. Use your largest flat screwdriver and your full arm strength (within reason.) The copper used in the outlet contacts is alloyed for strength and spring, it is not pure copper.
Test every outlet with a tester for polarity and good safety ground.
Make sure the service wires are connected to the outlets by looping them fully around the side screws, and never - ever use the back stab holes, not even for non-audio service.
If you can swing it, get a dedicated breaker box just for audio, fed directly from the meter, and use JPS romex from breakers to the outlets. $25/ft.
If you are really crazy, you can bolt down the audio components to the house, then you are allowed to hard-wire the components to the breaker (using JPS of course) without an outlet in the way. You will get lowest possible impedance connection with no outlet.
Put a large isolation transformer in there for extra reserve and make it a balanced power transformer for dead silent background noise. Especially great for tube amps. Night and day. The transformer reduces the impedance in proportion to the size of the magnetic core making the electrical service to the outlet less important. Putting a Equitech balanced transformer on a shared circuit was a miracle improvement for my tube amps.
Use some silver contact paste to improve conductivity on plug blades. Tiny tiny dab is enough. Or at least clean the contacts periodically.
What else?
