If I were to pick my favorite tubes for the phono pre I probably would go with the Amperex 12ax7's, I have some marked Zenith made in Holland and these just sound perfect to me.
I know Martin DeWulf (editor of Bound For Sound) loves Telefunken 12AX7's in his but I'm not sure if he is using smooth plates or ladder.
Other tubes that sound great in the phono are: RCA 5751's, these do vocals so stunningly that I'm not sure if any other tube rolling is necessary,albeit they do have a touch of warmth which I prefer.
The Sylvania Gold brand 5751's are also wonderful but very pricey nowadays if you can even find them.
The new reissued Mullard 12ax7 also sound very nice, full bodied
would best describe them again with a touch of warmth.
The Russian 12AX7LPS are wonderful and these are super quiet also. Any I have tried are dead quiet, great current production tube, very natural in their presentation.
Not to leave out the old RCA blackplate 12AX7 from the 50's, fantastic tube with the warmth that is so seductive it is hard to fault as it just submerges you into the music. Go great with scotch!