Replacing Binding posts

[Emil]

Well now that Im on a rollo...er....roll and feeling very confident in my soldering skills ( did the fuse bypass on my Maggies), I want to replace the binding posts with something more substantial, lets say, than the cheap ones that come with the magnepans.

How much of a "wow" factor can one expect from this tweek?

[shep]

Not as much as by-passing the fuse but every little bit helps. Replacing the stock parts in the cross-over is a must. All the older MAggies were seriously throttled. The bravest redo the wiring and make a more rigid, adjustable frame. When all this is done (yes I did on an ancient pair of 2's and  have seen it done on the 3 model,) they really begin to sing. I don't know about recent models but I expect they are the same. For some reason Jim Winey has always been averse to looking at what is are the weakest parts of his great design.

[Carlman]

I haven't replaced posts on speakers but have on amps... and there is usually a nice little improvement over the cheaper alternatives.  (I like Cardas unplated copper posts personally.)  I would stay it's a small notch less of a change than changing RCA chasis jacks on an amp. 

Another option is to bypass the posts all together.. how brave are you?

-C

[rollo]

Hey Emil. Depends on what binding post one chooses. All copper posts will maintain the character of the speaker. Silver such as WBT Nextgens will enhance detail and focus but may may thin it out a bit. That said an improvement will be had. I would go with either Edison copper posts or Vampire. The WBT Nextgens may be too revealing[ if your system is on the thin or bright side stay away]. However if you are a silver type of guy or your sound is warm or dark then the WBTs IMO are the real deal.
   Did you replace that "U" shaped jumper with a good piece of speaker wire ? If not do so. Check out the Maggie stands by Mapleshade as well. Very affective. If you want to go full bore than by all means check out Creek or Mundorf crossover parts and build a new one. Also the cap for the tweeter fairs well with Mundorf silver/oil caps. Oh and don't skimp on the jumper wires to the speaker from the crossover [ use same wire as main speaker cable]. Try using a smaller gauge for the midrange/tweeter. I use Kimber select [ silver] jumpers for the mid/tweeter section and Siltech Gen 5 for the Bass.
    The biggest improvement you can make is bracing the speaker. Si senor bracing the panel NOT to vibrate will add focus and clarity. Tightens up the midbass and adds a an octave to the bass[ cause you hear more info]. BTW try the tweeters on the outside if not doing so already.
    If you can have Oak side trim replaced with a beveled piece of Maple approx. 2 1/2 inches wide the soundstage will increase in size and the top end will blossom.


charles 

[shep]

Edison binding posts are the way to go. They are quite soft, pure copper, if memory serves me right, and you can easily over-tighten and strip the threads; happened to me on another speaker. I have not heard a fully tricked out Maggie in years but I believe they can be made to go up several levels of excellence for a reasonable outlay. Everything is pretty easy to access and the circuitry simple. There was a wonderful site somewhere dedicated to all of this. Lost the link but it shouldn't be hard to find. He suggests taking the cross-over off the speaker, in a dedicated box, and it being so accessible, it's very easy to swap out caps until you get the right sound. This is definitely on my lust list. My first encounter with Maggies is what got me into this craziness in the first place! 

[Emil]

Thanks guys

I think I'll order the cardas. I think I've read that the Rdisons are no longer made. Anyone recommend a dealer?

i agree with all about a rigid stand. The Mye stands and Mapleshades are expensive but I'm sure are worth it. I did make a DIY version for the time being.


Gutting the crossover? I'm not ready for that
I'll need to read Electronics for Dummies first.
You would think Magnepan would have improved the crossover by now. The 1.6s have gone unchanged for a good 10 years. A 1.6 Special Edition version for a few hundred bucks would be interesting but what they really need is something between the 1.6 and 3.6. A 2.? with a ribbon tweeter priced at around 3K.

No jumpers Charlie. I have them biwired with the tweeters outside