Are Your screws Loose ???

[Werd]

  Werd the Pipedream drivers have been adjusted many moons ago. Loosened them then snugged them a quarter turn. Much better tonality and presence.
   Interesting bout the outlets since awhile back the quad outlet was just loose as one screw for a duplex was stripped and not used. I went through hell getting the broken screw out and replaced with new. Ok it is finnally tight and now I should hear an improvement. Not so. I then forgot the outlet tightening. After awhile I wasnot happy with the tonality. Could not determine why since everything was the same no tweaks since nada.
    So last night I loosened both duplex outlets screws to the box. Well, well, well. I'M BACH. F'n crazy. Screws ???? to an outlet box.
    I know that Furutech has designed an outlet to better control resonance. Now I know why. What I really would like to do is remove the plugs and outlets all together and use wire nuts and bare wire in a junction box [ plastic]. Some day I will experiment with that.
    In the mean time the IEC screws will be done today for a listen.
     Having fun doing so as this tweak costs nothing.  Reversible as well, oh my !!


charles

The least amount of torque on the drivers the better. The problem is you can't go loud. But you can play them at a nice volume. Like really loose.
That's what I was saying, 

The outlets were the first thing I did. Which i didn't like. Thinking back I am inclined to believe one component might present itself with too much contrast.

I own the Furutech outlets I have them hanging not even attach to the wall. All the outlets in my Torus are loosen including the ones I don't use since they are all tied together. 

  glad you tried this Rollo. 
There is no turning back.

[rollo]

  Werd, well why not. Of course I would try your recco. We cannot learn anything without trying. Those who dismiss tweaks will forever be in the dark. The world is flat ! Think again.


charles

[Werd]

In terms of sonics alone the chassis is about the worst thing for audio. Its worse IMO for making a good system sound bad than a bad room.

Aside from grounds the circuit doesn't need the chassis. It's completely unnecessary but necessary for the manufacturer to get their audio circuits into your home. It's the fly in the ointment sonically. 

But it's salvageable by disengaging from the chassis as much as possible.  There is a release or less tension to the music. It's how it should sound or how I like. To each their own but it's there and anyone can adjust it. 

[rollo]

   Tried loosening the tannie bolt. Well removed it all together from the QOL processor. To my ears an improvement in imaging and ease of the music.
   Then the outboard power supply of the Lector CDP. Again more open in stage and better focused bass. A keeper for now.
    The wall outlet is now hanging loose from the box. Appears more natural in presentation again ease of sound with zero loss of dynamics.
    PRAT improved as the toe was a tapping more then before. This is crazy stuff. should not be but it is. I have zero explanation why only the effect wrought.
   TRY IT


charles
   

[Werd]

Take a zap from an outlet and feel the vibration. 60hz across the hand. Hopefully not through the heart because the vibration can kill.  All the platform tweaks and isolation tweaks address this simple concept and yet do not offer any effective solution. Almost all vibration induced distortion comes from the AC electricity itself. It's made worse by tightening down to a piece of metal chassis.  That's the only thing I can think of.   

[rollo]

 OK IEC's loosened on Uberbuss and CDP power supply again an improvement heard.
  Took another look at the three transformers in the CDP power supply and decided to try turning them on their side allowing no wire to touch another. Positioned them at 90 degree angles to each other as well. Better yet.
   Werd you were spot on about the cymbals. Brilliant !!


charles

[bobrex]

In terms of sonics alone the chassis is about the worst thing for audio. Its worse IMO for making a good system sound bad than a bad room.

Aside from grounds the circuit doesn't need the chassis. It's completely unnecessary but necessary for the manufacturer to get their audio circuits into your home. It's the fly in the ointment sonically. 

But it's salvageable by disengaging from the chassis as much as possible.  There is a release or less tension to the music. It's how it should sound or how I like. To each their own but it's there and anyone can adjust it. 

I was thinking about this and I wonder about the impact of different chassis materials and construction types.  Following your logic, and still keeping the idea of needing a chassis (electrical safety, WAF,...), it would seem to me that the bent metal chassis, whether AL, Steel, or CU, is probably the worst type.  I'd think that the best type (or at least better) would be the milled AL (think Ayre) or pehaps better still, wood with a top plate (my Moondogs fer instance). 

[Werd]

I agree with all that. Best chassis is no chassis but that becomes a pure audio device and not practical.  So we are stuck with milled al or wood of some type IMO too. I like putting wood under transformers and let the the chassis sit on aluminum plate. I don't mind the sound of aluminum. 

[Triode Pete]

I agree with all that. Best chassis is no chassis but that becomes a pure audio device and not practical.  So we are stuck with milled al or wood of some type IMO too. I like putting wood under transformers and let the the chassis sit on aluminum plate. I don't mind the sound of aluminum. 

The sound of a copper chassis is best, IMHO...

My $0.02,
Pete

[Werd]

I agree with all that. Best chassis is no chassis but that becomes a pure audio device and not practical.  So we are stuck with milled al or wood of some type IMO too. I like putting wood under transformers and let the the chassis sit on aluminum plate. I don't mind the sound of aluminum. 

The sound of a copper chassis is best, IMHO...

My $0.02,
Pete
 

Who uses a copper chassis?

[richidoo]

Dan D'Agostino:

[Triode Pete]

I agree with all that. Best chassis is no chassis but that becomes a pure audio device and not practical.  So we are stuck with milled al or wood of some type IMO too. I like putting wood under transformers and let the the chassis sit on aluminum plate. I don't mind the sound of aluminum. 

The sound of a copper chassis is best, IMHO...

My $0.02,
Pete
 

Who uses a copper chassis?

Also, BorderPatrol electronics, on their amps, preamps & power supplies...

[jimbones]

Sorry, I'm not loosening screws anywhere that i feel would comprimise reliability, warranty, or safety. The IEC is the portal for incoming power and that baby is not going to be touched.

[Werd]

Compromises none of that... At all actually. Just do not loosen grounds or anything attached to heat sinks.  Naim incorporates a loose IEC already.

[bobrex]

I agree with all that. Best chassis is no chassis but that becomes a pure audio device and not practical.  So we are stuck with milled al or wood of some type IMO too. I like putting wood under transformers and let the the chassis sit on aluminum plate. I don't mind the sound of aluminum. 

The sound of a copper chassis is best, IMHO...

My $0.02,
Pete

From an EMI POV, I'd agree.  But from a vibrational view, I'm not sure that sheet copper is going to any different than other sheet metals.  I'm not 100%, but I'd bet that at the sheet guages we are discussing, the metals all act the same.