AudioNervosa
Self Medicating => General DIY => Topic started by: rollo on December 12, 2011, 12:25:00 PM
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Could we start our own Cap sticky ?? Stating ones experience with different caps and applications may be very helpfull.
charles
SMA
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Here's a great start... http://www.laventure.net/tourist/caps.htm (http://www.laventure.net/tourist/caps.htm)
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I don't think you can beat the AC thread for the amount of info in it. So here's a link
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=54218.0 (http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=54218.0)
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I don't think you can beat the AC thread for the amount of info in it. So here's a link
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=54218.0 (http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=54218.0)
Bob your such a party pooper. Why can't we have one here.
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Another infamous cap test on the net, from Tony Gee in the Netherlands.
http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Cap.html
I like Jantzen Superior Z, and Silver Z, good for the money, well built.
I am interested to try Scotty's suggestion about the solid polymer caps.
I'd go for some Clarity MRs if I had a special job like a nice tweeter.
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The clarity MR work very well in coupling positions :thumb:
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I don't think you can beat the AC thread for the amount of info in it. So here's a link
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=54218.0 (http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=54218.0)
We can talk about our cap experiences here. The shootouts are interesting. Our hands on experience is what I'm looking for on AN. Not a dealer of caps.
charles
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OK, then lets talk teflons.
I tried the Russian FT3 teflons as .1uF bypasses on both my speaker tweeter circuit and as bypasses to coupling caps in my phono stage and CD player..
(http://www.rutubes.com/products_pictures/FT-3_0.22x200B_p.jpg)
This cap is exceedingly resolved like only Teflon caps are. After living with this cap for a long time, one has to marvel at its consistently musically-revealing nature and tonality. It doesn't wear its detail resolution on its sleeve, yet when one chooses to listen for it, the extension is impressive as well as actual detail and airiness without obvious glare.
Is it as good as the Sonicap platinums (no) or the VCap's (no)? Those are both a bit smoother than these FT3's, but they are also priced 4-5X higher. Does it have good bottom end extension? No, it is adequate but not as good as many more basic caps like Sonicaps or Multicaps if you are going to use it as a single cap replacement instead of a bypass. I tried the FT3 in my Hagerman Piccolo step up and it was not a good match with this tiny signal. I reverted back to a Sonicap II which was much more fluid in that position all by itself. I also tried it as a bypass for the woofer caps in my speaker, and that was a mistake. It seemed to shift the crossover point higher which caused a mismatch between tweeter and woofer.
Over all, and for the price, these are a no-broainer. Easily available on e-bay you can buy several and try them out for little cost. The shipping might take a month to reach your home from the Ukraine or Russia, so make sure to buy enough to use elsewhere to avoid that extra cost and time again.
Oh, one more thing. It seems that stringing teflon caps together from one component to another to another can result in a too much of a good thing problem. Used in the source and speaker, it might be just the ticket, but used in the source and the preamp and the amp and the speaker it could easily sound cold and analytical.
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Bob, have had similar findings with the V-cap TIO Teflons. They can take over if too many are used. Recently orderd a pair of Dueland Alexandra caps as well as Audio Cap PCU to try in amp. Now there are two V-caps at both coulping positions. The only two caps in the circuit.
My thought was to use the V-cap in the preamp instead. The cathode follower to be exact. There is a frankenswchwartz combo of a Dayton there now. I belive almost anything will out perform the Dayton.
Time will tell.
charles
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. I belive almost anything will out perform the Dayton.
For electronics, I'd take a good electrolytic such as Nichicon FG over Dayton film caps, Dayton are awful in electronics.
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. I belive almost anything will out perform the Dayton.
For electronics, I'd take a good electrolytic such as Nichicon FG over Dayton film caps, Dayton are awful in electronics.
Thanks Face. I just found out the the original coulping cap used was an Audio Cap Theta. What was this guy who had the Pre before me thinking using a Dayton ? :duh The coulping position is to the cathode follower. Tube is an RCA 6GK5.
charles
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Thanks Face. I just found out the the original coulping cap used was an Audio Cap Theta. What was this guy who had the Pre before me thinking using a Dayton ? :duh The coulping position is to the cathode follower. Tube is an RCA 6GK5.
A person I know who was asked to fix a $10K pair of speakers with a broken crossover showed it to me - nothing but electrolytics and iron cored inductors.
Thanks
Bill
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Hey Bill good to see you here again.
charles
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OK opened again for Duelund cap comparisons.
charles
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I would be interested in hearing from those who have experience with the Duelund Alexandra capacitors and how they might compare to some of the other capacitors out there such as the Mundorf, Clarity, Jensen and others.
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Don't forget V-CAP OIMP's if you are considering Dueland Alexander PIO's. They only come in larger values though starting at 1.0UF.
Then there's the DIY favorite Obbligato's. They are hard to find now since they went belly up a year or two ago.
For a cheap alternative it is impossible to beat the Russian K40-Y's, but they are only available in smaller values up to 1.0uF.
Enjoy
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I didn't think about the OIMP as their voltage ratings are not high enough in the values I require.
I still have some 2.2uF Obbligato caps but never used them in our preamps.
another capacitor I really liked that went belly up were the AmpOhm units available from The Tube Store.
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Okay, so here are my capacitor experiences (in two parts), fwiw.
I used to have a Modwright LS36.5 that was filled with Modwright teflon caps. It sounded good with a CJ MV60SE but lacked the harmonic richness I wanted.
Having the upgrade bug, I swapped the latter for a pair of Dodd Mono 50s which came with 6 Sonicap II coupling caps. I found the combination un-involving so I had Gary put in Sonicap Platinums. Hated the result. Overly smooth, "slippery" sound with no texture or harmonic richness.
Swapped out the Platinums for AudioCap PCUs and it was much better. The PCUs were even more resolving while having more texture, dimensionality, harmonic richness and bass. Still didn't have as much of these items as I wanted and realized it was the teflon caps in the Modwright. I should mention however, that my speakers are very revealing (even with AudioCap Thetas in the crossovers) and with warm speakers teflon might work well.
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Part 2.
I bought a Rogue Cronus, later upgraded to Magnum. The coupling cap in the former were cheap Mcaps. In the latter Mcap Supremes (IIRC) that are better. The latter were also bypassed with polypropylene caps. After listening for a good while I removed the bypass caps and found the sound more coherent and just as extended in the treble. Previously the treble was a little bit ahead (time-wise) of the mid-range. Unfortunately there is no room in the amp to upgrade the coupling caps to anything better.
I also bought a Havana DAC and changed the output coupling caps to Jupiter HTs. These made a big difference from the stock proprietary caps in resolution, transparency, bass response, tonal accuracy and harmonic richness. In that form both I and a friend thought it was clearly better than the stock Eastern Electric Minimax DAC.
However after said friend modded his EE, it surpassed the Havana so I bought one and had him do the same mods, including changing the output coupling caps to Auricaps. This produced a sound that was more resolving, very neutral, and very well balanced.
Again, given my speakers I wanted more richness, so I asked Scott Gramlich to change the Auricaps out for Jupiter HTs. The latter are huge (as all first class caps are) and required running the wires out of the chassis to a project box velcroed to the top of the unit. The difference is tremendous. All of the virtues listed above are apparent along with a much greater soundstage depth, more prominent inner lines and more clarity to the layers of images.
The two things that stand out the most for me with these caps, however, is their tonal accuracy and even frequency balance. Unfortunately, I can't afford Duelands but I'm extremely pleased with the HTs.
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The RelCap PCUs are very, very good in my amp. They absolutely blew away some cheap Solen MKPs and were a little better than Feastrex's new Urushi caps, which I'd highly recommend for the price. The PCUs are about 2x the price of the Urushis. I had Mundorf SIO in the circuit at one point and I think both the PCUs and the Urushis are a little better. Never tried Vcaps or Duelunds, they are a lot of cash.
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Well I did a little experiment over the last month or two. I installed some Multicap .22uF bypasses into my amp, right to the transistors, in an attempt to open up the top end a bit. Yes, it worked but it wound up sounding just a bit hard.
So I took advantage of the Partsconnexion Christmas sale and got some .047uF Dueland Alexanders. These were as physically large as I could fit in the amp. I broke them in for a few hundred hours then removed the Multicaps and put in the Duelands. Took a little while for these to settle in but I can now say that that hardness is gone. They have a spaciousness to them that sounds so totally natural and not at all disconnected, like you can get with some bypasses.
I'm pretty happy. Just wish they weren't so damned expensive or so physically large.
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Ordered Deulund Cast 1.0 for the Arion amps which will be replacing the Cardas output cap.
The Loesch & Weisner preamp has several MIT Multicaps. They will be replaced with Cast as well.
Size will be an issue but dam we we will make em fit. Velcro can be your best friend.
Question ? What is a good method of securing caps ? Ties ? Hot glue, Velcro, other ?
charles
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Ties are always preferred, but you might have to make a hole in a board to do that, so watch out for other traces. It is always good to hot glue it also for vibration control.
Hot glue by itself works for small parts, but be wary of heavy and large ones, especially if they are suspended. Too easy to break loose and fall.
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I have used Permatex Black Silicone RTV to attach electrolytic power supply capacitors to the floor of chassis with good results. The bond is very strong and vibration resistant. It must set undisturbed for 24 hrs in order for the part to be reliably attached. Another strong contender is 3M Very High Bond Conformable Acrylic Foam Tape Adhesive. If the part will not be replaced or removed then this type of adhesive is a good choice.
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dtools&field-keywords=3m+VHB+high+bond+tape+adhesive (http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dtools&field-keywords=3m+VHB+high+bond+tape+adhesive)
http://www.amazon.com/CS-Hyde-Conformable-Double-Sided-Adhesive/dp/B004V40K92/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1357176842&sr=1-2&keywords=3m+VHB+high+bond+tape+adhesive (http://www.amazon.com/CS-Hyde-Conformable-Double-Sided-Adhesive/dp/B004V40K92/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1357176842&sr=1-2&keywords=3m+VHB+high+bond+tape+adhesive)
Hot melt glue depending its composition can let go if it encounters shock especially if the ambient temperature is also well below room temperature. This can happen if you ship the component when its cold outside and it sits in an unheated Fedex or UPS truck for a while. It can also happen if you schlep components around in the wintertime from one place to another as audiophiles are wont to do.
Scotty
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Standard RTV releases acetic acid during cure, the strong smell. Not good for electronics. Google RTV acetic acid and you'll find multiple references. Dow Corning 738 or 748 are two good examples of silicones made for electronics that won't cause issues down the road. If you can't find them local, McMaster.com can be a source for a tube.
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Thanks Scotty, Bob and TMT. Double stick tape appears to be a VG solution for this project.
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All I can say in response is that I have been using Permatex Black RTV Silicone for this purpose since 1994 with no problems. SOP is to use it in an open chassis that is in a well ventilated area, once the silicone has cured no more acetic acid vapors are emitted. Dow Corning 738 or 748 may also be good candidates for this type of application, but I have no personal experience with their bond strength characteristics.
Dow Corning 748 has a Shore A of 35 while the Permatex has a Shore A of 18, elongation is the same for both products at 350%.
Scotty
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Thanks Scotty, Bob and TMT. Double stick tape appears to be a VG solution for this project.
If you are going to use double stick, then try and find a foamed tape and not just the thin plastic scotch tape type. Both will hold it, probably, but neither will give you a firm bond to the chassis/board.
I'd be more inclined to use Silicon and let it set properly.
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Well we did on some very expensive vehicle test instrumentation and it took a while to figure out what my other facility was doing, which is why I bring it up whenever I see someone using RTV with electronics.
It's also required when ....... :duh why bother.
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Charles, be advised that the 3M VHB tape adhesive is basically permanent and it may be nearly impossible to remove the part so attached from a crowded circuit board.
Scotty
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Hmm, I have to make this short for now, but I really like Mundorf Silver/Oil caps in my Audio Research preamp instead of the relcap ppmf caps. My new sonic frontiers SFL-2 pre has multicaps which I plan to Shit-can for Mundorf SIO.
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I like the Mundorf Silver/Oil caps so much that I'm thinking about
drilling holes in the bottom of my new/used SFL-2 preamp case and hanging the Mundorf's from the underneath for case.
Which is a serious problem for resale.
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Would you do this Mod?
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Nope - find something else that actually fits. There are lots of candidates.
Unless of course you are willing to add the name "Franken-" in front of it, or possibly reverse the mod before reselling.
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Hey Wirenut, nice to see you here. I would go for it as long as you can reverse it for a possible resale.
Maybe just maybe the SF could be your experiment piece, meaning no resale just fun to mod. Never know the outcome until you try.
BTW AR likes Audiocap Thetas. A rich sounding cap. Which puts you sonically between Conrad Johnson and AR.
Our Loesch & Weisner preamp has a few multicaps as bypasses. They will be replaced with Duelund Cast. Small values of .033 and .022.
charles
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Wirenut, Just leave the top off to make room for the caps. This will improve the sound further by removing the metal and by removing the vibration. Watch out for RFI from AM radio stations, however. Make a wooden cover if you want for shock protection. Don't cut the leads of the caps so you can resell them too. If your system is transparent enough you will tire of them, most people do.
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Funny Rich - that's where I find most people's opinions of the Mundorf's wind up. They all seem to love them initially, but around the 400-500 hour mark after full break in they like them less.
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Funny Rich - that's where I find most people's opinions of the Mundorf's wind up. They all seem to love them initially, but around the 400-500 hour mark after full break in they like them less.
Maybe it's good that I couldn't afford the Mundorfs and went with the Sonicap Platinum upgrade instead on my Dodd VGP pre-amp being built!?! :)
SN
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I've had the Mundorf SIO in my preamp for about 2 years. I took them out and tryed some Auricaps bypassed with V-Cap TFTF's
but didn't like it. Out came the Auricaps and V-caps, back in went the Mundorf's. Ahh Yes, much better.
Because of this, I don't fell good about buying V-caps again.
I wanted to put in some V-cap OIMP's in a different preamp
but the reviews aren't very good.
The size of the V-cap OIMP's would fit just right in my preamp.
The Mundorfs are HUGE.
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The OIMP's don't sound like the TFTF's. They are definitely a sweeter cap, but still transparent, and what I use in my preamp.
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The OIMP's don't sound like the TFTF's. They are definitely a sweeter cap, but still transparent, and what I use in my preamp.
Yeah, I’d really like to put four 3.0uf V-CAP OIMP’s in my preamp but due to the review below I’m having my doubts about buying any. I don’t know what to make of this review.
Here is the article:
http://www.laventure.net/tourist/caps.htm (http://www.laventure.net/tourist/caps.htm)
Chris Venhaus ends up defending his caps stating:
"Most of the applications the OIMP's are being used for are outside the scope of your testing. They're best suited for use as larger value output coupling caps (bypassed with a 0.01 TFTF—especially in digital circuits), as a bypass for electrolytic power supply filter caps, in a cascade with smaller value TFTF's, and in loudspeaker x-overs (although TFTF tweeter bypass caps work great on all but metal domes)."
WireNut
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A very interesting set of tests. I haven't seen that one before. It does make me want to try bupassing the 5.6uF OIMP that I have in my preamp with a .1uF Relcap RT that I have lying around (the survey seems to like those very much). I also used Sonicap Platinums as inter-stage coulping caps in my preamp. I do like this combo very much so am surprised at the relative negative comments for both. Perhaps though, as Dr Loesch found out, using 2 lesser caps in combination with differing strengths and weaknesses managed to bring out the best in both and make for a nice, balanced sound overall. Hmmm?
It also makes me want to pull out the 1.0uF Multicap PPMFX's that I have in my phono stage (bypassed with a .1uF Russian Teflon) and replace them with some 1.0uF Obbligato's that are also in my stash. The Obbligato's are definitely warmer sounding than the Multi's and a tad rolled off to my ears, but could be just the ticket with the teflon bypass.
My phono stage has a switch that allows me to select 2 different sets of output capacitors. I have the following ones on the second switch and they definitely have a sweeter more old world sound that makes some of those hard 70's vinyl records sound just right. They project music in more of a "wholeness" rather than in an audiophile detailed and separated way, if you know what I mean. They are a great PIO cap that was not in the survey, and unfortunately not made anymore so grab em if you see em, are the Amp Ohm's.
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Hi BobM,
I’m just about to give up on trying to find an exotic cap to fit inside my preamp due to their physical size so I’m now thinking about bypassing the 3.0uf Multicap PPMFX’s as you are considering. Based on info from Chris Venhaus site the OIMP’s are not suggested for signal coupling but Sonic Frontiers does use them in there mods. I think they may use them because they fit in the same space as the multicaps.
Here’s a good review on Audio Note, and Jensen PIO caps. They also mention Mundorf SGO. I like Mundorf S/O caps and four .01uf would only set me back $115.00. The Jensen PIO are nice but expensive. By-passing should open up a lot more possibilities. I’m looking into Ampohm, Thanks.
Review. http://jimmyauw.com/tag/audio-note/ (http://jimmyauw.com/tag/audio-note/)
Steve
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Well, I installed the Relcap RT's as bypasses to the OIMP's. Didn't hear very much of a change (yes these RT's were used before and broken in). This leads me to believe the OIMP's are really good as they are - output coupling caps in my preamp.
I then replaced the Multicap PPFMX's in my phono stage with the Obbligato's (bypassed with Russian teflons). Things sound very congested right now. It lost that hard edge that the Multi's seem to have but it is not very good. I'm letting records spin and hoping that it is break in, but I've used these before and wasn't too pleased, so I'm not optomistic.
If you're going to spend over $100 on bypasses I would suggest trying something else first.
- get those cheap Russian teflons and type them. Yes, they are physically large, but for $20 you can get 4 of them shipped. They aren;t very gopod as full coupling caps (not very good bass) but they work pretty well as bypasses, even if they arenlt quite as smooth as a V-Cap.
- Try a Sonicap II as a bypass. Cheap and pretty decent and physically small.
- Go for the Dueland Alexanders as a bypass. These are the cat's meow. Expensive and physicall large though, but I like what I hear from them better than a V-Cap.
- Look at the Clarity caps. I haven't tried them (yet) but lots of people say "this is the one that hits the sweet spot in price vs performance."
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I fear the worst. I see no option but to disassemble/desolder/and possible ruin my preamp in search of the Holy Grail of caps.
Sometimes I hate being a neurotic audiophile.
Steve
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OK, so the system is soundiung hard and overly bright on both CD and vinyl. So I pulled the Relcap RT bupasses on the OIMP's and now things are back to normal. Open, musical, spacious, etc. Just confirmed what I think of the RT's despite that nice review of them. Also confirmed what I like about the OIMP cap.
Now for the Obbligato's in the phono stage. They have opened up but don't really sound like anything special. Overall the Multicap PPFX caps are nicer. These are the better Multicaps and are supposedly some kind of teflon. I'll give them some more time, but I doubt that they will stay.
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So it sounds like you really do like the OIMP's and they are to stay in your preamp.
If you did a search for "Sonic Frontiers SFL-2 photos" you will see 4 large caps in the center. They are 3.0 UF Multicap PPFX's.
Those are the four caps I'm planing on replacing with the OIMP's. I don't have a semantic so I'm thinking those are input/signal coupling locations and not outputs cap locations.
An engineer at Sonic Frontiers did say that replacing those 4 caps with OIMP's will take the SFL-2 into the 21st century.
Meaning he considers the multicaps out dated.
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I can't find any other Oil caps or PIO caps that will fit that small space. Only the V-cap OIMP's.
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Found this set of reviews, but they are all in relation to crossovers and not as coupling caps.
http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Cap.html (http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Cap.html)
Yeah, the OIMP's are very nice to my ears.
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Found this set of reviews, but they are all in relation to crossovers and not as coupling caps.
Correct, which really doesn't help much if you're curious how any of these would sound in your amp or preamp.
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OK, so the system is sounding hard and overly bright on both CD and vinyl. So I pulled the Relcap RT bypasses on the OIMP's and now things are back to normal. Open, musical, spacious, etc. Just confirmed what I think of the RT's despite that nice review of them. Also confirmed what I like about the OIMP cap.
Now for the Obbligato's in the phono stage. They have opened up but don't really sound like anything special. Overall the Multicap PPFX caps are nicer. These are the better Multicaps and are supposedly some kind of teflon. I'll give them some more time, but I doubt that they will stay.
Those Obbligatos are not the Cats meow. For your phono stage using the Dynavector I would recco a neutral or Mundorf S/O. The Deulund alexandra as well. Bob as you know the Apogees are on the warm side of neutral. The street word is to use Poly caps when possible. Have fun.
charles
For years the designer showed the speakers with a cool sounding amp. Spectral that is.
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I have very real size constraints in the phono stage. Mundorfs are too big. Duelands are out of the question. So far the teflon multi caps are the best I fouond that fit, but that doesn't mean I will stop searching. :?
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I have very real size constraints in the phono stage. Mundorfs are too big. So far the teflon multi caps are the best I fouond that fit.
You are in the same situation I am with my Line Stage.
Check out the AudioCap Theta's on Sonic Craft's Site.
I just set up my TT after pulling it out of my closet after 15 years. Now I need a phono stage for approx $100.00 to $750.00
My equipment is Sonic Frontiers, audio research, cambridge.
I'm looking into Jolida JD9 or Hagerman DIY kit. Could really use some advise on any others. I'm back from the grinds of digital after 20 years.
Steve
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The Hagerman Coronet II kit is very good, but is MM only. There are several mods that I would consider "essential" if you are going to build it yourself. These are documented in various Hagerman threads at AC.
Then there is the used market, where you might be able to get someting pretty nice. But first you have to decide "SS or tubes". Tubes will be more expensive and you are less likely to find a MC phono stage that way. You would need a step up or a head amp (I recommend the Hagerman Piccolo for an inexpensive yet excellent solution).
On another note, Partsconnexion is running a sale on Dueland Cast coupling caps. A 1.0uF is now $223/ea instead of the usual $600/ea. Such a deal!
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I have very real size constraints in the phono stage. Mundorfs are too big. So far the teflon multi caps are the best I fouond that fit.
You are in the same situation I am with my Line Stage.
Check out the AudioCap Theta's on Sonic Craft's Site.
I just set up my TT after pulling it out of my closet after 15 years. Now I need a phono stage for approx $100.00 to $750.00
My equipment is Sonic Frontiers, audio research, cambridge.
I'm looking into Jolida JD9 or Hagerman DIY kit. Could really use some advise on any others. I'm back from the grinds of digital after 20 years.
Steve
Steve, VISTA SS phono stage. Kaboom for the buck. Another to consider with your preamp is the older PS audio if you can find one used. The SF phono stage as well again if you can find one. Have fun.
charles
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Also soundsmith makes excellent SS phono pres for not a lot of money.
I have the vista, which i love, but the soundsmith phono pre just destroyed it!
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Also soundsmith makes excellent SS phono pres for not a lot of money.
I have the vista, which i love, but the soundsmith phono pre just destroyed it!
Well I was getting ready to purchase the Vista but ran across a
soundsmith MMP3 for $250.00. The price is right.
Should I go for it?
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Has anyone heard anything about the new Mundorf Evo line?
Especially the Evo Silver/Gold/Oil?
http://www.hificollective.co.uk/components/mcap_evo_sgo.html (http://www.hificollective.co.uk/components/mcap_evo_sgo.html)
They are a bit taller but a lot shorter than many other similarly rated caps. Supposedly the next step down from the Supreme line but significantly less expensive.
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Yes go for the soundsmith, I have had both in my system and I am friends with Boris of Vista.
Boris is agreat guy but the Soundsmith is better by a large degree.
When you want to move to moving coil call me, that pre with a good stepup(like Slagle) will be killer, trust me
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Yes go for the soundsmith, I have had both in my system and I am friends with Boris of Vista.
Boris is agreat guy but the Soundsmith is better by a large degree.
When you want to move to moving coil call me, that pre with a good stepup(like Slagle) will be killer, trust me
Mikey knows his stuff in this matter. If he says the Soundsmith is better it is. For $250 jump in.
charles
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Dammit I hesitated on the soundsmith and lost out ](*,)
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Yes go for the soundsmith, I have had both in my system and I am friends with Boris of Vista.
Boris is agreat guy but the Soundsmith is better by a large degree.
When you want to move to moving coil call me, that pre with a good stepup(like Slagle) will be killer, trust me
Matter of opinion. Guy that bought my Vista also owns the Soundsmith, and he tells me he prefers the Vista. Smoother and more musical, he says. Just reporting, I don't know from personal experience, but I did very much enjoy the Vista.
How's it hangin', Rumproast? :lol:
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Dammit I hesitated on the soundsmith and lost out ](*,)
Been there, done that! :duh
You know how the saying goes "... He who hesitates, finds something else to buy!" :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
SN
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Back to topic. The Mundorf SIO caps are settled in. 400 hours to stop changing. Duelund CAST1.0 are coming in for the Arions. The original caps are Cardas.
Has anyone noticed that if using tubed gear the tube and the cap synergy is key to cap selection ?
charles
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Back to topic. The Mundorf SIO caps are settled in. 400 hours to stop changing. Duelund CAST1.0 are coming in for the Arions. The original caps are Cardas.
Has anyone noticed that if using tubed gear the tube and the cap synergy is key to cap selection ?
charles
I have Wonder Caps in my SP8 because that was what was popular back then. I was "wondering" (pun intended :rofl:) if I should upgrade to something more current and possibly better. Most have told me not to screw with it just leave it be. But the tinker audiophile in me just loves to eff with things and get in trouble :duh)