Convenience Aside- Connectors or Not For Speaker Cable?

Started by James Edward, June 02, 2021, 06:50:11 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

James Edward

I am currently using Supra speaker cable- multi stranded copper that is tinned throughout the cable, not just at the ends. I use some screw on bananas for convenience, but I believe I could bareback it without the bananas. I know some cables are better off with connectors and shrink tube to prevent oxidation- the Supras do not have this issue though.
Has this ever been verified- is the signal  somehow 'purer' without the banana or spade? Mine are nothing special- simply two set screws on a gold plated banana- not soldered, welded, etc.
I know that try it and see is the right answer, but the amp and cabinet get heavier by the day. Speaker end is no problem... Just wondering if anyone's had an epiphany or 'meh' moment about this.
Luxman L- 590 AX MK2
Chord Qutest DAC
Pro-Ject Debut Carbon Esprit SB
Audience Au24SE
PI Cat6
Spatial Audio M3 Turbo S
Stereo Hsu ULS-15 Mk2
Supra Classic 6.0

P.I.

Quote from: James Edward on June 02, 2021, 06:50:11 PM
I am currently using Supra speaker cable- multi stranded copper that is tinned throughout the cable, not just at the ends. I use some screw on bananas for convenience, but I believe I could bareback it without the bananas. I know some cables are better off with connectors and shrink tube to prevent oxidation- the Supras do not have this issue though.
Has this ever been verified- is the signal  somehow 'purer' without the banana or spade? Mine are nothing special- simply two set screws on a gold plated banana- not soldered, welded, etc.
I know that try it and see is the right answer, but the amp and cabinet get heavier by the day. Speaker end is no problem... Just wondering if anyone's had an epiphany or 'meh' moment about this.
General observations, YMMV, blah, blah, blah...

OK, got that out of the way.

The best connector is no connector, when possible.  Connectors are just another thing (more, actually) to get in the way of the straight wire with gain target.  Different materials, often poor ones, steel screws, oxidation,  high mass components, platings... they are all impediments to a continuous, contiguous flow from point A to point B.  All too often it ends up A to Z.

If I have robust amp and speaker connectors I prefer to make sure the bare wire is very clean and unoxidized, treat them with an oxidization inhibitor and then tighten the connectors as tight as possible.  I do this 2-3 times with a couple of minutes between tightenings.  The wire will cold flow a bit between tightening and letting the wire rest let's the wire get happy with each tightening.  What we are looking for is an air tight or excluding connection to eliminate oxidation.

On the other end (pun) of the equation if the connectors aren't conducive to this method, I choose the simplest, lowest mass connectors possible and make sure that they are also treated with oxide eliminating compounds.  For banana style connectors the Nordost and GR Research Tube Connectors are my go to choices. 

I am certainly not a fan of any spade connector that uses grab screws.  If at all possible a crimped cold weld is desirable.  If one must solder, use the best solder possible.  Solder is an entirely different conversation...
"A man with an experience is never at the mercy of a man with an argument." - Hilmar von Campe

rollo

  In a nutshell, what Dave said NO Connector is the best way to go. Be tinned an occasional cleaning. lose the connectors. :thumb:


charles
contact me  at rollo14@verizon.net or visit us on Facebook
Lamm Industries - Aqua Acoustic, Formula & La Scala DAC- INNUOS  - Rethm - Kuzma - QLN - Audio Hungary Qualiton - Fritz speakers -Gigawatt -Vinnie Rossi,TWL, Swiss Cables, Merason DAC.

James Edward

Luxman L- 590 AX MK2
Chord Qutest DAC
Pro-Ject Debut Carbon Esprit SB
Audience Au24SE
PI Cat6
Spatial Audio M3 Turbo S
Stereo Hsu ULS-15 Mk2
Supra Classic 6.0

Jack

Dueland recommends bare wire on their cable which is a similar makeup.
JVC QL-Y7 w/ Denon DL-301 Mk II
Vista Phono II Mk II
Jays Audio CDT3 Mk III
Supratek Cabernet
Kinki Studio EX-B7's
Laiv Harmony
Auralic Aries G2.2
Qualio IQ Ultra
(4) Rythmik F12SE
(2) Puritan PSM-156
Tubulus USB & AES
Wireworld IC's and SC's
TWL PC's

S Clark

A few years back I simply ran an extra foot of wire out the back of my speakers, then used plastic wire nuts to connect to the speaker cable.  I even added a dab of dielectric grease to "seal" the connection from air. 
Works well, but not for those that are always fiddling with their gear. 
Speaker-GR Research LS9-XStatik-AltecFlamenco
Amp-Moscode,Dodd,Folsom
Pre-Dodd
Turntable-Vyger,Victor,TechnicSP10MK2
Phonopre-Hagermann,Jolida,GSlee   
Cable-AudioSensibility Wywires TWL
Cartridge-Dynavector,Sumiko
Tonearm-PioneerP3,Jelco
Rythmic sub

James Edward

Well... It's not to be on the speaker end. The binding posts are not made for 9 gauge wire- and they don't seem suited to bare wire at all. I also have to insert my Walker HDL's, which I don't want to be without.
https://walkeraudio.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/Reference-HDL-Instructions.pdf
I'll have to find something else to mess with now.
Luxman L- 590 AX MK2
Chord Qutest DAC
Pro-Ject Debut Carbon Esprit SB
Audience Au24SE
PI Cat6
Spatial Audio M3 Turbo S
Stereo Hsu ULS-15 Mk2
Supra Classic 6.0