Author Topic: DIY Question  (Read 233 times)

Offline shadowlight

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DIY Question
« on: June 17, 2018, 12:08:42 PM »
I think I am going to need a new power supply for my Pi project, since I am seeing a bunch of under voltage messages with my current powersupply.  I have been looking on ebay for either Elpac or Jerome Industries 5v power supplies with higher amp output but every one that I have found has DIN connection and I need barrel / laptop style end.  Any guidance on how to convert DIN to barrel?  For example one of the power supply that I am looking at on ebay

Any insight from the more experienced DIY guys on how to convert.

Offline richidoo

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Re: DIY Question
« Reply #1 on: June 17, 2018, 02:50:08 PM »
As you know, Pi 3B has a USB power inlet. I use Canakit 2.5A wall wart, and never had any power problems. I chose that one because it had high current rating 2.5A.

You can convert the DIN to barrel plug by cutting off the DIN plug, measuring the voltage on the conductors inside the cable to find your 5+ and GRD, solder those directly to Switchcraft 760, standard 5.5x2.5mm barrel plug. It fits Switchcraft 712 if you need a female. Rated 12V/5A.

Here's a 5 pin DIN female socket for adapting the Elpac's stock DIN plug: DIN 5 pin female socket.

You can probe the PS output plug to find the 5+ and GRD pins, but don't short the pins when probing! ;) Hold the ground probe to the shell with your thumb while you use both hands to steady the plug and the other probe.

Double check your voltage on the barrel plug before you connect it to Pi, I think wrong voltage will damage it, iirc

Offline HAL

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Re: DIY Question
« Reply #2 on: June 17, 2018, 04:52:25 PM »
I tried an iFi iPower 5v with my RPi3B and it would undervolt all the time, so stopped using it.  It is rated for 5V@2.5A, but for some reason the RPi3B was not happy with it. It came with an DC coaxial to microUSB adaptor. 

I have cut apart a microUSB cable and wired it to a 5V DC supply.  I used one of the Ebay LT1083 DC supplies and adjusted it to 5V before connection.  You can replace the stock rectifiers with Schottky style rectifiers and a 6.3VAC to 9VAC transformer for use.  That handles up to 7A of current depending on the PT you choose.

Just a thought.

Offline Folsom

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Re: DIY Question
« Reply #3 on: June 17, 2018, 08:22:21 PM »
Teddy Pardo is perfect if you don't want to work on soldering and stuff.

There is also the Silent Switcher as well.


Offline shadowlight

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Re: DIY Question
« Reply #4 on: June 18, 2018, 06:29:03 AM »
Thx gents.  My current power supply is rated 5v/3A but I guess the power draw from the Kali reclocker and Piano Dac is higher.

Offline HAL

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Re: DIY Question
« Reply #5 on: June 18, 2018, 02:16:19 PM »
Teddy Pardo is perfect if you don't want to work on soldering and stuff.

There is also the Silent Switcher as well.

The Silent Switcher has a 5V@0.5A max output.  Will not work with the RPi3B.

Offline Folsom

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Re: DIY Question
« Reply #6 on: June 18, 2018, 08:10:55 PM »
Right  8-[

Offline shadowlight

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Re: DIY Question
« Reply #7 on: August 10, 2018, 09:57:28 AM »
I tried an iFi iPower 5v with my RPi3B and it would undervolt all the time, so stopped using it.  It is rated for 5V@2.5A, but for some reason the RPi3B was not happy with it. It came with an DC coaxial to microUSB adaptor. 

I have cut apart a microUSB cable and wired it to a 5V DC supply.  I used one of the Ebay LT1083 DC supplies and adjusted it to 5V before connection.  You can replace the stock rectifiers with Schottky style rectifiers and a 6.3VAC to 9VAC transformer for use.  That handles up to 7A of current depending on the PT you choose.

Just a thought.

Rich, would you happen to have a link for the LT1083 DC supply and transformer?

Would something like this work - https://www.ebay.com/itm/1PC-High-LT1083CP-PRO-HIFI-Linear-adjustable-regulated-DC-Power-Supply-DIY-Kits/232432764581?epid=14006997247&hash=item361e1286a5

Offline P.I.

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Re: DIY Question
« Reply #8 on: August 10, 2018, 10:23:03 AM »
I'm not Rich, but I used the LT1083 in my now discontinued BatteryBUSS.  Great reg and quiet, too.  If you build one or buy one make sure that the output cap is 100ufd or so.  I use Oscons.
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Offline HAL

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Re: DIY Question
« Reply #9 on: August 10, 2018, 11:38:31 AM »
Here is the style LT1083CT board I used:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/LT1083-Adjustable-Regulated-Power-Supply-Module-Parts-DIY-Kit-with-Heatsink/202365929278?rt=nc&_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D52935%26meid%3D57bd6c636153457faf49eb44c5d031ba%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D232432764581%26itm%3D202365929278&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

I feed it with either a 6.3VAC @ 5A secondary EI core power transformer or 6.0VAC @ 5A toroid.  Had to use 1/2 of a 12.6VAC CT filament transformer, since it was not a dual winding output like the toroid.

I replaced the 4 stock rectifier diodes with Schottky style TO220 units I found with low Vf.

You also need a micro USB connector for 5V power to the RPi3.  Check your 5V polarity before use.

Make sure to adjust the output to 5.0VDC before connection to the RPI3.

I have one of Dave's BatteryBUSS here with the 5V regulator added to run USB power for his USB cable.  Gave me the idea.