What is the Consensus - Plug Your Amplifier Into Power Conditioner- Yes or No

[James Edward]

I have a Panamax 5300 and I wonder whether there is any advantage to using it for my LSA Signature integrated. I see the amperage draw display jumping around at louder volumes, but I'm not sure that the amp isn't somehow being starved by the PC. I use the 'high current' outlet, but still...

I am trying it plugged straight into the wall today and we'll see what happens, but I was just curious as to what other members think...

[bpape]

My amp goes straight into the wall.  Everything else runs through a Kaplan extension box with a variation of the Felix for the outlets.

Bryan

[mdconnelly]

I think it really depends on the power conditioner... overall, my experience is that going straight to the wall sounds better, but I'm using an UberBUSS right now and running my McCormack DNA-500 through it sounds great with no constrictions on its performance at all.

[Triode Pete]

Power Conditioners always robbed the dynamics from my system...

If you have good power supplies in your amps, you shouldn't need a power conditioner...

[richidoo]

Power Conditioners always robbed the dynamics from my system...

That was my experience also, until I tried Equi-Tech balanced power conditioner, 1.5Q. It did not make the amps stuffy or less dynamic like all the passive filters and power strips that I tried did, but it did lower the noise floor dramatically. It had a much bigger effect on tube amps than it did on solid state amps. The only drawback, besides the price of 90 pounds of iron and copper, is that because it is a very large AC transformer in a steel box it did have a soft 120Hz mechanical hum.

[bacobits]

I run the Pathos Classic One MKII out of the wall.
Actually, I have ran all my amps out of the wall.
Everything else is through my Brick Wall Line filter.

D

[_Scotty_]

I am running my SS 100watt/ch amp straight into the wall using the recommended Hubble outlet.
I am building a Felix filter which is rated at 20 amps. I will be trying my amp out on it when I finish the build.
In the past power filters have crushed the amplifiers dynamics and decreased the size of the sound stage. I am hoping for a positive result on the amp this time around. I definitely have dirty power in my high-rise condo.
Power filtering on sources has generally been a Good Thing.
Scotty

[Bigfish8]

Moscode 402AU directly to 20 amp dedicated circuit with JPS Outlet.

Ken

[Black Sand Cable]

I have everything running into a Furutech Daytona 303 which is in turn being fed by a small Equi=Tech panel and I would not be caught dead running anything straight to the wall.

I have a dedicated panel, dedicated lines and just about everything else you can think of and I still wont run anything straight to the wall. It's simply never going to happen with me.

[richidoo]

John, what is that "small Equi-tech panel?"

[tmazz]

I am not saying that one does not exist, but I have never heard a power line conditioner that did not sound like it was handcuffing a power amp.

My theory on this is that power amp (especially  high power amps like my Classe 25 or Moscode 600) pull significant amounts of AC power in response to audio transients. I have often wondered if power amps don't sound good  when hooked up to PLCs because the PLC looks at the power draw spikes as if they were incoming noise and clamps down on them. Non power amp components have a much more constant power draw and are not subject to this effect.

[James Edward]

Well- my amp does sound better plugged directly into the wall. And this may be a 'DUH' statement, but the effect is most noticeable at higher volumes.

However- how do you handle the threat of power spikes, lightning, etc.? I have heard about 'whole house' surge protectors, but is that just strangling the power at the electrical box?

Thanks for the answers.

[richidoo]

Like bacobits said, Brick Wall, with maybe an Equitech afterward... 

[_Scotty_]

GE makes a whole house lighting/surge protector for 120v to 600v that goes inside your circuit breaker box.
GE part no.    9L15ECB001  You may have to search this part no. on the GE website
http://www.gepower.com/ecatalog/html/search-parts
if the links don't work.
See links: http://www.gepower.com/prod_serv/products/capacitors/en/tran_secondary.htm
http://www.gepower.com/ecatalog/html/partnosearch

http://www.gepower.com/ecatalog/html/view-part-details
Cross reference table link http://www.intermatic.com/products/~/media/Files/Intermatic/Literature/Surge%20Suppression/Surge%20Arrester%20Cross%20Reference.ashx
Your local electrical contractor supplier should have these in stock or be able to order one in.
I use a gas discharge surge arrestor inside my power amps for local surge protection.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bourns/2027-23-BLF/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsdWQmBKEIh8pxkdYTOm0HUCzuwVrYaN5w%3d

This is placed after the fuse from hot to neutral so that if it shunts a surge the fuse will blow and take the amp off-line.
Scotty

[tmazz]

Well- my amp does sound better plugged directly into the wall. And this may be a 'DUH' statement, but the effect is most noticeable at higher volumes.

However- how do you handle the threat of power spikes, lightning, etc.? I have heard about 'whole house' surge protectors, but is that just strangling the power at the electrical box?

Thanks for the answers.

At higher volumes you are pulling more power out of the wall thereforeany clamping effect would kick in more easily, so what you hear makes sense.
As for lightning, I always pull the plugs  when I am not using the system during the thunderstorm months