AudioNervosa
The Market => Manufacturer News => Topic started by: Folsom on September 01, 2017, 02:12:15 PM
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Hi everyone, Rollo suggested I post here about some PCB boards I have up for sale.
First is the DIY7297 amplifier & Antipole PSU. There are a few threads about them: here (http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=138229.0) & here (http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/group-buys/309860-folsom-diy7297-amp-antipole-psu.html). I can't even begin to cover all the pics and comments in this thread.
The DIY7297 amp is two channel 15w, not bridgeable. My version has a KMR section that acts as a capacitor multiplier & voltage regulator. This cuts down noise and makes sure you don't blow up the chip. It features smart PCB layouts such as CFC (capacitor field cancellation), copper pours, and optimized grounding direction that have been tested. It's fitted to accept a variety of input capacitors; and bypass capacitors.
The Antipole psu features an AC filter (CMC & caps), unique to perhaps it in all the world. The same CFC and copper pours are deployed. It uses TO-220 diodes, and fits the amazing Nichicon KG snap caps. It also has aux outputs. This is compatible with lots of projects, and was found to be a big improvement for classD amps like the TPA3116. It is only a single channel output.
Next up are my new GB items:LOFI, DCS1 & DCS2 (here (http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/group-buys/310874-folsom-lofi-pcbs-transformer-board-dc-pcbs-psu-boards.html)) . All of which haven't hit critical mass (yet). They are designed for use on small signal devices and small amplifiers (generally less than the 7297).
The LOFI is "low output, filterd input". It's just a play on acronym and ironic term. It features what many people know as a "felix" on the input, essentially. The CMC used is also a DMC, by Coilcraft that provides a whopping 25mh. It's a board for the input filter and a high versatile transformer with a variety of voltage options - the Hammond 229 48va. It is compatible with 115/230v, and you can select series or parallel secondaries. If you need + and - output you can use the center tape, CT. This Hammond transformer is a dual bobbin that acts like an RF filter itself, high recommendable for signal devices (Peter Daniels is a big fan, and he started down the path after Mark Levinson being all about them).
The board uses copper pours, has resistors for stopping resonations in the CMC, optional RC for the primary/post CMC, and essentially condenses size into a "wad" of iron that can fit in a smaller space that most are use to with a transforer and 'felix' style filter.
The DCS1 & DCS2 are compact rectifier and ripple filter boards. They feature copper pours and CFC. They are made to use TO-220 diodes such as the MUR860. They have RC's on them that use trimmers so you can fine tune for sound. They have discharge resistors placement. They fit Nichicon 20mm snap caps, KG series (and other snap caps 20mm in diameter). They're small and easy to mount along with the profile of the LOFI. The 1 is for 1 output like if you just need 15v + , and the 2 is for + and - output.
As with everything I make, I provide what I consider to be really good documentation. I consider it all to be luxury DIY in sound and easy of use.
LOFI
(https://image.ibb.co/nBJZra/LOFI.png)
DCS1
(https://image.ibb.co/grqscF/DCS1.png)
DCS2
(https://image.ibb.co/hQy0Wa/DCS2.png)
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Good stuff Folsom. Thanks for the info. DIYers get cracking.
charles
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Folsom,
Do we order these here or on DIYAUDIO? Also what is the max power? Thank you.
Jim
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Well the DIY7297 & Antipole anywhere. For the LOFI, DCS1 & DCS2 I can add your name from anywhere but prefer to be able to send a group PM on DIYaudio for simplification. It sucks to lose track of someone.
Power for?
The DIY7297 is 15w per channel. It can peak up towards 25w. The LOFI is 48va only.
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Folsom,
My buddy Gary wants to build one. He read a bit and wants to know if there are any cap upgrades etc that you’d recommend. He will use his own power supply. So Gary will buy the 7297 and Antipole and get the rest from you? He’s a member here
Thanks,
Nick
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I'm not sure how much I follow. I think the input caps are the big point to upgrade. I like the Jantzen red's quiet a bit. But you can use anything.
The Antipole is the PSU, along with a transformer. You can use something else so long as it has the right voltages (the type of device matters in this case, SMPS and LPS are different needs).
Have him PM me, I'll give info for payment and to get documents. If he wants parts I can bundle or even build and test, but it certainly costs more than DIY.
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I'm not sure how much I follow. I think the input caps are the big point to upgrade. I like the Jantzen red's quiet a bit. But you can use anything.
The Antipole is the PSU, along with a transformer. You can use something else so long as it has the right voltages (the type of device matters in this case, SMPS and LPS are different needs).
Have him PM me, I'll give info for payment and to get documents. If he wants parts I can bundle or even build and test, but it certainly costs more than DIY.
Thanks. I’ll forward the info and he can contact you to pursue
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Folsom,
My buddy Gary wants to build one. He read a bit and wants to know if there are any cap upgrades etc that you’d recommend. He will use his own power supply. So Gary will buy the 7297 and Antipole and get the rest from you? He’s a member here
Thanks,
Nick
Late to the dance here.
I would wholeheartedly advise Gary to use the Antipole. It is a great execution of a pretty unique method of avoiding mechanical and electrical resonances in the power supply. It exudes quality.
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Folsom,
My buddy Gary wants to build one. He read a bit and wants to know if there are any cap upgrades etc that you’d recommend. He will use his own power supply. So Gary will buy the 7297 and Antipole and get the rest from you? He’s a member here
Thanks,
Nick
Late to the dance here.
I would wholeheartedly advise Gary to use the Antipole. It is a great execution of a pretty unique method of avoiding mechanical and electrical resonances in the power supply. It exudes quality.
Gary will likely do that. He’s told me he doesn’t have the correct voltage on his
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:thumb:
Folsom,
My buddy Gary wants to build one. He read a bit and wants to know if there are any cap upgrades etc that you’d recommend. He will use his own power supply. So Gary will buy the 7297 and Antipole and get the rest from you? He’s a member here
Thanks,
Nick
Late to the dance here.
I would wholeheartedly advise Gary to use the Antipole. It is a great execution of a pretty unique method of avoiding mechanical and electrical resonances in the power supply. It exudes quality.
Gary will likely do that. He’s told me he doesn’t have the correct voltage on his
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Images. The caps are slightly smaller, but the BOM has updated ones for perfect fit.
(https://image.ibb.co/gD43bw/unnamed33.jpg)
(https://image.ibb.co/bJ989G/unnamed222.jpg)
And with a DCS board you can get it super snug in if you want, but you can also have it with stand offs taller than the CMC. (put a piece of electrical tape between)
(https://image.ibb.co/hqUQpG/shortstack3.jpg)
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Link to building and BOM (http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/power-supplies/316988-folsom-lofi-dcs1-dcs2-materials-build.html)
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Images. The caps are slightly smaller, but the BOM has updated ones for perfect fit.
(https://image.ibb.co/gD43bw/unnamed33.jpg)
(https://image.ibb.co/bJ989G/unnamed222.jpg)
And with a DCS board you can get it super snug in if you want, but you can also have it with stand offs taller than the CMC. (put a piece of electrical tape between)
(https://image.ibb.co/hqUQpG/shortstack3.jpg)
Thanks for the pics. I have some interest in your amp and someone on this forum would build it for me. As all my audio gear is in the living room, it needs to look nice.....just ask my wife. I noticed on AC that a Takachi case was being used by some. Do you have any thoughts about nice and functional cases?
Nick
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The Takachi are nice, so are Landfall Systems.
Both are aluminum and act as a good shield for outside noise, and don't look low quality.
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I sent Danny Richie one of the 7297 amps that I put together. It is "close" to as designed... I just can't help my self... and he is liking it right out of the gate.
Take a peek over there: http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=156151.msg1671062#msg1671062
I'll be very interested in what Danny has to say after it has some time on it.
Jeremy's designs are well conceived and executed. I can't say enough about his attention to the details that bring great SQ. Well done! :thumb:
I'll find out what the chassis costs will be. Gary Dodd designed them for exactly these kinds of applications and knowing him they are bound to be great quality. Lord, I miss that man.
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Dave yes we miss Gary as well. For the short time I knew him it was a blessing. Now for us with ten thumbs how can we hear this wonder ? :mrgreen:
charles
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When Danny is done it will start making the rounds. I think Danny will be sending it to jparkhur and from there, I dunno.
I'm going to email Jon in a bit and we'll try to figure this all out.
8)
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Dave yes we miss Gary as well. For the short time I knew him it was a blessing. Now for us with ten thumbs how can we hear this wonder ? :mrgreen:
charles
Charles,
I have one. Let me know if you want to listen to it and we can arrange something.
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When Danny is done it will start making the rounds. I think Danny will be sending it to jparkhur and from there, I dunno.
I'm going to email Jon in a bit and we'll try to figure this all out.
8)
If there’s gonna be a tour, pls count me in. I’d love to hear it!
Nick
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Hey Nick, congrats on passing the 1,000 post mark. :X
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Hey Nick, congrats on passing the 1,000 post mark. :X
Thanks, Tom. I had no idea I could be this “prolific” at my age..... 😳
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I'll be building another 7297 with some different resistor types than the BOM. I really like Takman and PRP resistors and I'll be seeing what different colors the amp is capable of reproducing. I think it can have different personalities for different applications... not vastly different but nuanced.
Great amp project.
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The type of resistors will have a small affect on the power coming in. The mute/stby resistors don't do anything. It's the ones in the KMR section that can differ. For example Dale RN lean 2HD and PRP lean 3HD, so it may change the sound a little. Takman will be specifically trying induce some noise, but it won't be much at such low voltages.
Probably the easiest way to really change the sound... swap in MUR860 diodes. They really can give you a tube sound, like the lush type sound. They are not as accurate or as dynamic, but they might be exactly what some people want.
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The type of resistors will have a small affect on the power coming in. The mute/stby resistors don't do anything. It's the ones in the KMR section that can differ. For example Dale RN lean 2HD and PRP lean 3HD, so it may change the sound a little. Takman will be specifically trying induce some noise, but it won't be much at such low voltages.
Probably the easiest way to really change the sound... swap in MUR860 diodes. They really can give you a tube sound, like the lush type sound. They are not as accurate or as dynamic, but they might be exactly what some people want.
Thanks for the tip, Jeremy. I plan on trying the Takman carbon films to do exactly that. It's that indescribable "flavor" thing. I'm just curious as to how much tone (noise) shaping can be done. I'll be mounting them on headers until I figure out where they live. Specifically I'm trying to voice the amp (bad idea, but I'm curious) for the Dayton PS220 speakers that I'm working with. They need a little help in the warmer department. That is one of the reasons they sound so good with tube amps.
I'm also going to try some Fairchild Stealth diodes. Same idea.
Great platform for knowledge, fun and just good listening. Kudos!
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What does your OB look like? Measurements and placement of the speaker?
DO they have a crossover?
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What does your OB look like? Measurements and placement of the speaker?
DO they have a crossover?
Pictures to come soon. They are being changed from ugly OB on the PS220 to a 200 Hz transmission ftp://v (ftp://v)line upper enclosure (better looking per the wife) to mate with my GR subs. They use the crossover in the plate amps I have been using and I am changing them to vertical bi-wire for my Folsom amps with some ambient tweeters on the upper backs to help deal with the beaming inherent with a single driver. When I sent my 7297 amp to Danny Richie I figured it was time to do el destructo I wanted to do with my speakers. I want a small, tidy speaker to make music in my room.
I'm using VST plugins to deal with the PS220 3.6kHz bump and I will be searching for a differen
handle frequency compensation.
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The problem with OB's and bookshleves is often that they place the driver in the resonate peaks. A TL will help, tune it to FS quarter pipe. It would probably take a massive series cap to work for what I suggest to flesh out the midrange better - like some huge snapcaps back to back. Hopefully some dampening behind the driver will work. I dont like stuffing in the line, usually sounds bad.
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The problem with OB's and bookshleves is often that they place the driver in the resonate peaks. A TL will help, tune it to FS quarter pipe. It would probably take a massive series cap to work for what I suggest to flesh out the midrange better - like some huge snapcaps back to back. Hopefully some dampening behind the driver will work. I dont like stuffing in the line, usually sounds bad.
I shudder at speakers that place drivers at wavelength resonance nodes floor to ceiling. I normally try to place the LF driver at one of the fifths or sevenths of the floor to ceiling distance. Bass is always smoother. BTW, I have rethought the enclosure for the PS220. It will be a folded QWTP force tuned to 40Hz. I'll place the subs where they sound best and probably move to a swarm. Just makes sense.
I'll try a biased cap alignment when I get the suckers built and broken in. Actually the PS220s have 2 weeks of run in with a Variac doing 5mm p-p while we were on Christmas vacation and they sound really good now.