AudioNervosa

Electro Stimulation Ward => Signals and Noise => Power Cables => Topic started by: StereoNut on November 18, 2013, 08:35:31 AM

Title: PI Audio Uberbuss
Post by: StereoNut on November 18, 2013, 08:35:31 AM
I am a new owner of one of Dave's Uberbuss's. I want to break this new piece in, but not run my system 24/7 to do it.  I've asked a few of my audio cronies about this and have gotten different suggestions.  (FYI - there are 3 duplex outlets on the Uber.) Rather than list what I've been told already (especially because they vary so much) I want to know what the actual "mechanics" behind the break-in process are.

In no particular order...

 • Does it matter what you plug in to it? (E.g.: if I plug in a lamp with a 60 watt bulb in it and leave it on, will that "do it"?)

 • Does whatever I plug into it have to have a varying degree of "draw" through the Uber, thus my light bulb idea now becomes useless?

 • If whatever I plug into it has a "sleep" mode (E.g.: a computer) does that defeat the purpose because there's not enough "juice" being used?

 • Whenever I figure out WHAT to plug into it, do I have to rotate it around to each of the 6 sockets?

Comments, suggestions, etc... (Please be specific)

Thanks!
SN

P.S. to my local buddies: I'm asking for more info. because I still don't understand how this process works - not because I don't trust your judgement in what you've recommended.
Title: Re: PI Audio Uberbuss
Post by: richidoo on November 18, 2013, 06:03:47 PM
The mechanics of break in for electronics is simply the gradual formation of stable electric fields in the insulation material that is in contact with the conductor. It takes time to form, depending on the voltage applied and the type of insulation. Likewise, the fields built up during use will dissipate with lack of use and require repeating break in again. Some insulation materials like teflon require longer time to establish a stable electric field while others like cotton require less time.

Transformers and caps in power filters have a lot of dielectric material in contact with the conductors, so maybe it will take some time for the UberBuss.

My outlook on break in is that you have already bought it, and you're not sending it back for a refund, so it really doesn't matter when the break in ends. You can't speed it up, so there's no point worrying about it, unless you are gear oriented audiophile who enjoys observing how machine changes  over time. For me, that perspective is too far down the rabbit hole. It just doesn't matter when there is music to focus on instead. The system is as good as you can make it, so just ignore the break in. Maybe you will notice it change, maybe not. It doesn't matter, it is what it is. And it will probably get even better with break in. If it doesn't who cares? Hopefully inserting the brand new component will immediately sound better than what it's replacing, because any improvements due to break in are usually minor compared to the overall performance improvement potential of a given upgrade. If you don't hear strong indications of the improvement on the first impression of brand new unbroken component, then it probably won't get that much better after break in. You should be able to hear most of it on the first listen.

For loudspeakers it is totally different, because the drivers need physical exercise to break in, and this drastically effects performance potential. Speakers usually need just 100 hours, whereas some caps will take 500 or more. But dielectric break in is not that big of an effect as loosening driver suspension. The better quality of the dielectric (teflon) the longer it takes to charge it, so the longer the break in and the more dramatic the improvement caused by the break in. Teflon caps can sound very bad during charging as partially charged fields affect the signal negatively.
Title: Re: PI Audio Uberbuss
Post by: StereoNut on November 18, 2013, 07:37:27 PM
Thanks, Rich.  How did I know "The Professor" would come through, as always! :thumb:

SN
Title: Re: PI Audio Uberbuss
Post by: Triode Pete on November 19, 2013, 09:48:16 AM
Hey Hoser,
Why don't you just contact Dave Elledge at PI, the designer & builder of your UBER for his burn-in thoughts???

He would know best, eh!

Take off, eh,
Pete
Title: Re: PI Audio Uberbuss
Post by: StereoNut on November 19, 2013, 10:33:34 AM
Pete

I traded PM's with Dave re: break-in after I started this thread.

He said the Uber shouldn't need more than a day for the caps to stabilize, but will need a week or two of use to be fully "cooked".  He did say that if I plug a fan, a lamp, TV, fridge, whatever into it for a few days it would speed up the process.

I guess I should've mentioned that here as an update, which is my bad! :duh but I still was curious to what other ideas any one else had. 

In the meanwhile, "See you in the great white North!"  :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

SN
Title: Re: PI Audio Uberbuss
Post by: rollo on November 21, 2013, 08:27:13 AM
 Bill welcome to the Uber Club. it takes some time. Best way is to plug Refrig. into Uber for two weeks and be done. You will hear a difference. Off the bat good then bright bright bright until its cooked. Happy cooking.


charles
     
     
Title: Re: PI Audio Uberbuss
Post by: GT Audio Works on November 21, 2013, 08:34:37 AM
Bill welcome to the Uber Club. it takes some time. Best way is to plug Refrig. into Uber for two weeks and be done. You will hear a difference. Off the bat good then bright bright bright until its cooked. Happy cooking.


charles
     
     
A side benefit is the contrast of your refrig bulb will be better making the food look better..not to mention a more appealing compressor hum !!!  :lol:
Title: Re: PI Audio Uberbuss
Post by: sleepyguy24 on November 22, 2013, 11:15:41 AM
Bill welcome to the Uber Club. it takes some time. Best way is to plug Refrig. into Uber for two weeks and be done. You will hear a difference. Off the bat good then bright bright bright until its cooked. Happy cooking.

charles  
     

I've read about this before on other forums. I wish I could find the links for you. For some heavy duty power conditioners or even power cords people have used fridges or freezers to burn in their gear. From what I can remember they said the cycling on and off them can simulate what occurs when music is playing on your system. I also found a high efficiency front loading washer can be good to use as well. I found the LG one I have can sometimes start off at 10 watts and spike to 540 watts in seconds.

I can't tell you the exact science of what burning in these power stuff does but I can share with you what I did. It will probably make people laugh at how crazy I got.

Using a Kill a Watt for the components I was going to use with my isolation transformers I measured what wattage they consumed. Taking that number I would measure what other electrical appliances consumed. I would then plug those household items into new outlet, isolation transformer or power cord turned into extension cord. I always wanted to make sure that the household appliance I was using drew more than what  my components did to make sure the audio power gear was really being taxed. You should have seen my wife's face when she saw me vacuuming around the house one day and in tow was my 1.8 kVA Isolation transformer. She rolled her eyes another time when she saw me ironing and I had 2 daisy chained power cords and another isolation transformer at my feet. I did alternate the sockets to be used for burn in. I don't know if it made a difference but I wanted to make sure I had all bases covered. Thank God I'm done for now with power break in.

Also Thanks SN for posting this thread. I had questions like yours before but I was a bit bashful in asking so I did what I did.

I hope is all works out with the Uberbuss.
Title: Re: PI Audio Uberbuss
Post by: StereoNut on November 22, 2013, 03:13:32 PM
You're welcome Dean! :thumb:
Title: Re: PI Audio Uberbuss
Post by: rollo on December 22, 2013, 07:15:40 AM
So ?? Are we soup yet ? What differences do you hear ? Now you need another one.


charles
Title: Re: PI Audio Uberbuss
Post by: Nick B on June 29, 2017, 07:18:03 AM
Well, I've joined the Uber club!! 👍 Ordered a quad from Dave and it should be here in a couple of weeks.
I don't have the funds to get a good pc with it right now, but all in due time. I've been thinking about this for a couple of years and it's finally going to happen. Dave and I traded a few emails and he asked a few questions about my system and especially my modded McCormack amp and he's confident it'll work in my setup.
I'll keep you posted....
Nick
Title: Re: PI Audio Uberbuss
Post by: P.I. on July 16, 2017, 12:24:48 AM
I've got all of the pieces/parts undergoing reliability testing at this time. ,Next comes the impulse response and over all good thingd.

It'll ship out on Monday, but:  USPS here is just suckable.  Be prepared to see it in USPS Shipping info on Tuesday.

I'm not fond of USPS, but they are the lowest cost.  Since I do my very best to keep every expense low, sometime thay just fool all of us as to when they go out the door and I jkust have to eat it or try rto explain why a 2-day Priority Mail shipment takes 4 days.  That is a toughie.


Ta'...
Title: Re: PI Audio Uberbuss
Post by: Nick B on July 16, 2017, 07:57:47 AM
I've got all of the pieces/parts undergoing reliability testing at this time. ,Next comes the impulse response and over all good thingd.

It'll ship out on Monday, but:  USPS here is just suckable.  Be prepared to see it in USPS Shipping info on Tuesday.

I'm not fond of USPS, but they are the lowest cost.  Since I do my very best to keep every expense low, sometime thay just fool all of us as to when they go out the door and I jkust have to eat it or try rto explain why a 2-day Priority Mail shipment takes 4 days.  That is a toughie.


Ta'...


Thanks for the update. Similar issues here with Priority Mail. Most annoying is when they don't scan the barcode so I can't follow the shipping progress. Oh well.....
Nick
Title: Re: PI Audio Uberbuss
Post by: Nick B on July 21, 2017, 11:37:04 PM
The Uber has landed! Now to put some hours on it and report my findings
Nick
Title: Re: PI Audio Uberbuss
Post by: tmazz on July 22, 2017, 05:06:13 AM
The Uber has landed! Now to put some hours on it and report my findings
Nick

New toys are always fun.  :thumb:
Title: Re: PI Audio Uberbuss
Post by: dflee on July 22, 2017, 06:43:45 AM
Let the games begin.
The Majic cleared up problems I didn't even know I had.
And yes they were my realizations cause I wasn't told what to expect. (That's how Dave works).

Don
Title: Re: PI Audio Uberbuss
Post by: Nick B on July 22, 2017, 11:08:06 AM
The Uber has landed! Now to put some hours on it and report my findings
Nick

New toys are always fun.  :thumb:

Toys?? The Uber isn't a toy!! Well, ok, maybe it is. I listened last night at low volume and it was wonderful!! As I've tapped into one outlet of four with just a few hours of break in, it was eye opening.
It'll be many hours before I do a review...but what a head start! Thanks, Dave!!
Nick
Title: Re: PI Audio Uberbuss
Post by: Nick B on July 31, 2017, 10:45:39 PM
I am uberjoyed with this darn contraption!! The Furutech G is broken in and now I'm going to the polished P & S
Thanks Mr E!!
Nick
Title: Re: PI Audio Uberbuss
Post by: mdconnelly on August 01, 2017, 08:07:33 AM
Nick, can't wait to hear your comparison of the Furutech vs the polished P&S.    I decided to use the Furutech GTX in the wall and just go with all polished P&S in my SuperUber - Uber and Digi combined with TWL Silver Statement feeding it - all plugged into the Furutech.   Absolutely love it!

I know there's a lot of different power conditioner products on the market and new ones popping up everyday.   But damn, the Uber just works extremely well with absolutely no down side that I can discern.
Title: Re: PI Audio Uberbuss
Post by: Nick B on August 01, 2017, 09:39:51 AM
Nick, can't wait to hear your comparison of the Furutech vs the polished P&S.    I decided to use the Furutech GTX in the wall and just go with all polished P&S in my SuperUber - Uber and Digi combined with TWL Silver Statement feeding it - all plugged into the Furutech.   Absolutely love it!

I know there's a lot of different power conditioner products on the market and new ones popping up everyday.   But damn, the Uber just works extremely well with absolutely no down side that I can discern.

Mike,
I have a hunch that I may just end up doing the same thing. I hadn't thought much about a wall outlet,
but I'd think it would be very helpful. Im inclined to pick one type receptacle for the Uber as my equipment will likely change over the years.
It'll get more interesting when I plug my dac into the Uber
Nick
Title: Re: PI Audio Uberbuss
Post by: P.I. on August 01, 2017, 01:25:21 PM
It makes my day when I see that my products bring someone closer to the joy of music!  I'm happy, happy, happy!

Thanks for taking your time and ding the empirical approach to the Uber.  It is always good to know what and/or which is the best for a different component in the system.  Some pieces of gear love the polished P&S (I do) and another piece of gear that might be a tad on the bright side would prefer the Furutech FPX(G) which is quite round sounding.  Another piece might like the stupid expensive GTX NCF.  It is all cut and try.  This is especially tue when the skeptics will say that all of this is hogwash.  Of course, none of those guys will try anything outside of their realm of book larnin' which serves as a basis for things, not a final authority.

Remember, I'll trade out receptacles for you all at any time.   :thumb:
Title: Re: PI Audio Uberbuss
Post by: Nick B on August 01, 2017, 07:10:37 PM
It makes my day when I see that my products bring someone closer to the joy of music!  I'm happy, happy, happy!

Thanks for taking your time and ding the empirical approach to the Uber.  It is always good to know what and/or which is the best for a different component in the system.  Some pieces of gear love the polished P&S (I do) and another piece of gear that might be a tad on the bright side would prefer the Furutech FPX(G) which is quite round sounding.  Another piece might like the stupid expensive GTX NCF.  It is all cut and try.  This is especially tue when the skeptics will say that all of this is hogwash.  Of course, none of those guys will try anything outside of their realm of book larnin' which serves as a basis for things, not a final authority.

Remember, I'll trade out receptacles for you all at any time.   :thumb:

Dave,
Just curious. Would changing receptacles require shipping to you or can it be a swap done by the owner?
Nick
Title: Re: PI Audio Uberbuss
Post by: P.I. on August 01, 2017, 09:44:26 PM
The receptacle swap is easy. 

BUT!!! You have to unplug the Uber and let it sit unenergized for 10 minutes before opening it up.  If you don't, you could get a surprise of a lifetime from the Power Factor Correction network.  It can dump in excess of 100A when shorted until it is fully drained by the safety resistors.  That is enough to kill a person and is highly discouraged by my insurance company.   :shock:  The actual bleed down occurs in about 2 minutes, but better safe than sorry, eh?

All you have to do is remove the coverplate and the receptacle that you want to replace.  Remove the black and white AC and ground wires.  Remove the FinalFilter from the old receptacle.  Install the FinalFilter on the new receptacle and then wire it up. Polarity is not an issue, but I recommend that the FinalFilter is reinstalled on the same polarity side it was removed from for best results.  White (or red on some older Busses) wire to the Neutral side with nickel plated screws and the black wire (aka: the killer) to the brass or copper colored Hot screws.  Ground goes to the green screw (black on Furutech), reinstall it and you are done.

Make sure that the screws are tight.  I use Jena Labs contact Enhancer when I install the wire into the receptacles.  There "should be" enough left to survive one swap.  If it is necessary, any contact enhancer is OK.  Anything from DeOxit to model railroading Rail Zip will work.  Just remember: the tiniest amount possible is more than enough to treat the contacts.
Title: Re: PI Audio Uberbuss
Post by: Nick B on August 02, 2017, 07:12:30 AM
The receptacle swap is easy. 

BUT!!! You have to unplug the Uber and let it sit unenergized for 10 minutes before opening it up.  If you don't, you could get a surprise of a lifetime from the Power Factor Correction network.  It can dump in excess of 100A when shorted until it is fully drained by the safety resistors.  That is enough to kill a person and is highly discouraged by my insurance company.   :shock:  The actual bleed down occurs in about 2 minutes, but better safe than sorry, eh?

All you have to do is remove the coverplate and the receptacle that you want to replace.  Remove the black and white AC and ground wires.  Remove the FinalFilter from the old receptacle.  Install the FinalFilter on the new receptacle and then wire it up. Polarity is not an issue, but I recommend that the FinalFilter is reinstalled on the same polarity side it was removed from for best results.  White (or red on some older Busses) wire to the Neutral side with nickel plated screws and the black wire (aka: the killer) to the brass or copper colored Hot screws.  Ground goes to the green screw (black on Furutech), reinstall it and you are done.

Make sure that the screws are tight.  I use Jena Labs contact Enhancer when I install the wire into the receptacles.  There "should be" enough left to survive one swap.  If it is necessary, any contact enhancer is OK.  Anything from DeOxit to model railroading Rail Zip will work.  Just remember: the tiniest amount possible is more than enough to treat the contacts.

I got it!! Unless I want frizzy hair ....permanently....unplug and walk away for at least 10 minutes  :thumb:
Nick
Title: Re: PI Audio Uberbuss
Post by: dBe on August 02, 2017, 09:34:51 PM
The receptacle swap is easy. 

BUT!!! You have to unplug the Uber and let it sit unenergized for 10 minutes before opening it up.  If you don't, you could get a surprise of a lifetime from the Power Factor Correction network.  It can dump in excess of 100A when shorted until it is fully drained by the safety resistors.  That is enough to kill a person and is highly discouraged by my insurance company.   :shock:  The actual bleed down occurs in about 2 minutes, but better safe than sorry, eh?

All you have to do is remove the coverplate and the receptacle that you want to replace.  Remove the black and white AC and ground wires.  Remove the FinalFilter from the old receptacle.  Install the FinalFilter on the new receptacle and then wire it up. Polarity is not an issue, but I recommend that the FinalFilter is reinstalled on the same polarity side it was removed from for best results.  White (or red on some older Busses) wire to the Neutral side with nickel plated screws and the black wire (aka: the killer) to the brass or copper colored Hot screws.  Ground goes to the green screw (black on Furutech), reinstall it and you are done.

Make sure that the screws are tight.  I use Jena Labs contact Enhancer when I install the wire into the receptacles.  There "should be" enough left to survive one swap.  If it is necessary, any contact enhancer is OK.  Anything from DeOxit to model railroading Rail Zip will work.  Just remember: the tiniest amount possible is more than enough to treat the contacts.

I got it!! Unless I want frizzy hair ....permanently....unplug and walk away for at least 10 minutes  :thumb:
Nick
Or, we'll just call you Sparky!
Title: Re: PI Audio Uberbuss
Post by: rollo on August 13, 2017, 10:23:14 AM
Piece of cake Nick. Give it a go. Now get a Digibuss and plug that in Uber, oh my!!


charles
Title: Re: PI Audio Uberbuss
Post by: Nick B on August 15, 2017, 01:27:33 PM
A brief update on da BUSS! After a hiatus of sorts, I've broken in the Furutech copper. For the fun of it today, I plugged the Antelope dac Voltikus power supply into the P & S polished. Another nice improvement  :thumb: Fuller, richer sound and different/better retrieval of detail. Was listening to a duet using one mic and the portrayal was more precise and realistic imo.
Title: Re: PI Audio Uberbuss
Post by: dBe on August 16, 2017, 10:16:34 PM
A brief update on da BUSS! After a hiatus of sorts, I've broken in the Furutech copper. For the fun of it today, I plugged the Antelope dac Voltikus power supply into the P & S polished. Another nice improvement  :thumb: Fuller, richer sound and different/better retrieval of detail. Was listening to a duet using one mic and the portrayal was more precise and realistic imo.
:thumb:
Title: Re: PI Audio Uberbuss
Post by: rollo on March 19, 2018, 11:28:16 AM
  We all know the benefits of an Uberbuss. Please try un-grounding all components from Uber out. Ground Uber. Listen then un-ground Uber and listen again. Notice anything ????


charles
Title: Re: PI Audio Uberbuss
Post by: P.I. on March 19, 2018, 07:42:25 PM
  We all know the benefits of an Uberbuss. Please try un-grounding all components from Uber out. Ground Uber. Listen then un-ground Uber and listen again. Notice anything ????


charles
Yeah.  Gear usually sounds better / quieter ungrounded.  Do it on your own volition knowing that if the end user does anything stupid and gets zorched it ain't my fault. I run everything ungrounded, but that is just me.  Be sure to check every circuit in the house to see that someone didn't reverse a hot and neutral somewhere.  It happens all too often, especially when a weekend warrior decides he is a Elek-tricann.

I was damned near killed in 1984 in a recording studio when some moron decided to run speaker wires made from romex (??? yeah: I know) in a chase that also had 220 run in conventional 12/2 romex right next to it.  The room was dark and we were going to pull new speaker cable in two directions from that point using the existing romex as pulls.  Stuck my pair of Kleins in and cut what I thought was the speaker cable.  I was working underneath an MCI half inch tape mastering recorder that probably weighed 250 + pounds.  With the blinding flash, bang and everything I raised up and knocked myself cold on the bottom of the tape machine overhang.  I was out for 5 minutes.  Last time I ever did anything assuming other people knew what they were doing.  Blew up a great pair of pliers, too.   :x